Roadster won't start after grip replacement

Smitty81

.060 Over
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Messages
104
Location
Milton, WA
Ride
2016 Rocket III Roadster
Hi Gents,

So I got a set of Kuryakyn ISO grips for Christmas. The throttle-side grip comes with a new sleeve, so this evening I removed the old throttle grip and installed the new one. To do so required taking the switch housing apart and the master cylinder half off the bars. I also had to loosen both throttle cables considerably, which I did at the bar end only.

Once I got everything back together, I reconnected the battery and tried to start the bike. The lights come on and the gauges sweep, but as soon as I press the starter I hear a single loud click from somewhere around the engine (strong enough that I can feel it a bit through the handlebars), and the bike loses power entirely. I turn the key off and back on, and it remains dead. If I wait a couple of minutes and try the key again, it lights back up and I'm in the same situation.

I tested the battery with a multimeter and it seems fine; I took it to the auto parts store for a test just in case I was doing something stupid with the multimeter, and they confirmed the battery is good. I pulled every fuse in the box and they're all good.

I'm trying to figure out what I might have done to cause this. There seems to be a bit less free play in the throttle compared to the old one, though I've tried to adjust both cables to regain the 5mm of play specified in the manual. Even loosened as they were, getting the throttle cables out of the original sleeve was a minor *****. Could I have inadvertently screwed something up at the engine end of the cables? I can't tell if the noise I'm hearing is electrical or mechanical.

I managed to get a video showing what I'm talking about:


Any advice would be appreciated.
 
That is a strange one!!!...if it were me, i would go all the way back and retrace my steps. It almost seems as if its an overload or safety cutout system due to a direct short somewhere. It cant be much logically thinking can it? It has to be in the right side controls im thinking.....
 
Make sure ALL battery connections are tight.
Just to be sure - hook up some jump cables from a car - keeping the polarity correct.
I think it will be all battery related, old weather mills batteries - I would never disconnect my battery to change grips.
If you get the gauge sweep and the CLUNK at start the problem will not be at the handlebar.
 
Sounds like the starter solenoid to me... could be just a coincidence it decided to go bad at the same time you changed your grips... recheck what you have done... make sure battery is charged...check all battery cables etc... mine use to make the same sort of noise at the starter so get someone to listen or put your hand on it and try start it... could try putting it in gear n giving it a rock then retry starter... other than that I dunno but does sound starter solenoid related.
 
Seems like low amps at battery to me being as your (LOUD NOISE) starter motor try to kick her over. Try booster or put it on charge overnite.
 

Yeah a safety cutout was my first thought as well. I'll go back over everything this morning with a clear head.
 

Thanks man, I'll try that.
 
I won't begin to guess what you have going on with your bike notnot start. I do want to warn you those grips are plastic where the cables seat and if you over tighten just a hair they will break and no way to fix them.
 
the problem is bat connection.
if u check bat power after it clicks u should be able to tell whether it is + or - .
 
Put your voltmeter across the battery and tell us what the voltage is. It should be high 12s or low 13 volts. If the voltage is good then with the voltmeter in place, hit the starter button and see what the voltage drops to. If it drops a lot with that loud click, the battery is probably shot so long as the starter is ok (battery has an intermittant open circuit internally). If the voltage doesn't drop with that loud click then you have a loose connection somewhere. How did the auto shop test the battery? Best way is with an AVR type instrument and a carbon pile.

Sure does remind me of a loose connection though. Will allow a small amount of current then when you draw a lot, the connections arcs and breaks.

Did you check where the ground lead connects to the frame or the positive lead connects to the starter?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Possibly the last Rocket III Roadster registered in the UK is for sale
Replies
0
Views
158
Ward
Ultimate lean angle on a Rocket III Roadster without falling over?
2
Replies
12
Views
609
1olbull
2018 roadster tuneecu question
Replies
5
Views
613
CamaroCarl
Front brake disks (rotors) with ABS replacement
Replies
5
Views
286
atomsplitter
No headlights, no start
2
Replies
15
Views
846
jordy92uk
Menu
Log in
Register