Request advice on new brake system 2014 R3T

[Boog]

Hello all ye learned masters of stopping.

My first questions is: What new calipers and brake lines will fit the ABS version of the R3T (2014) without needing fabrication?

Second questions: What do I need to know about doing this swap at home? I get the idea that ABS is a more serious/attention to detail evolution than standard brakes.

Recently, Brahma had the master cylinder and the right front OEM caliper rebuilt . I mentioned in another thread that the front brakes still feel mushy but after pumping the grip, they pressure up. I believe this is an indication of air in the line but I have failed to get it out if it is.

I have read many threads here and think maybe the Pretech Six Pot calipers are the way to go such as @Joesmoe and others have gone to. I want to go to steel braded lines to. Everything I have read tells me they help to pressure the calipers a split second faster because they do not expand like OEM lines do.

You know I am not known for waxing and polishing the bike and ride in every condition around. I am learning all about corrosion issues. Brahma is starting to need new parts anyway so I might as well go with the good stuff. He has eaten up much of my disposable income of late, but I do intend to keep him around to the end. With that said, is there a better or more cost effective means? Brembo is great on the 2020 bikes for sure but I think it is pricier.

Should I change the disk as well? It seems to be in good shape judging only by feel. I see quite a few of you have changed that too. @Paul Bryant has a good write up with his set up. And I see @1K9 and @Tripps and others have all had a go at upgrading calipers.

Keep in mind guys, I do not even qualify as a shade tree mechanic, (I don't even have a tree).

I am on the Pretech website now but am confused as to which caliper: I do not see any supporting ABS or for the R3T, they just have R3R listed. I have sent them a message.

I look forward to your sage advise...

 

[Jag]

The triumph OEM lines are steel under the plastic cover if I remember correctly! You need to bleed both calipers at the same time using a vacuum pump and a dual caliper set up. I don’t have abs but it couldn’t hurt to bleed/ change the fluid in the abs unit! I’m real anal when it comes to brakes. I flush and bleed every two years or as soon as the fluid starts to turn amber! Stop by I’ll give you a hand!

 

[WyldCFH]

Before buying a new system. Pump the handle 3-4 times until you get good feel. Then hold it on and zip tie it to the grip for 24 -48 hours. This should help remove the air.
Or try reverse bleeding them... How It Works | Reverse Bleeding Your Brakes to Remove More Trapped Air

 

[Jag]

The ty wrap trick is a good old fashion dirt bike trick and it works great!

 

[Boog]

The triumph OEM lines are steel under the plastic cover if I remember correctly! You need to bleed both calipers at the same time using a vacuum pump and a dual caliper set up. I don’t have abs but it couldn’t hurt to bleed/ change the fluid in the abs unit! I’m real anal when it comes to brakes. I flush and bleed every two years or as soon as the fluid starts to turn amber! Stop by I’ll give you a hand!

The dealer just changed the fluid and has bleed the system five times after the flush. This is when they discovered the master cylinder and right caliper needed rebuilding.

 

[Jay]

Those Pretec are nice. I don’t know which model matches the R3T though.

 

[Bedifferent]

Hello all ye learned masters of stopping.

My first questions is: What new calipers and brake lines will fit the ABS version of the R3T (2014) without needing fabrication?

Second questions: What do I need to know about doing this swap at home? I get the idea that ABS is a more serious/attention to detail evolution than standard brakes.

Recently, Brahma had the master cylinder and the right front OEM caliper rebuilt . I mentioned in another thread that the front brakes still feel mushy but after pumping the grip, they pressure up. I believe this is an indication of air in the line but I have failed to get it out if it is.

I have read many threads here and think maybe the Pretech Six Pot calipers are the way to go such as @Joesmoe and others have gone to. I want to go to steel braded lines to. Everything I have read tells me they help to pressure the calipers a split second faster because they do not expand like OEM lines do.

You know I am not known for waxing and polishing the bike and ride in every condition around. I am learning all about corrosion issues. Brahma is starting to need new parts anyway so I might as well go with the good stuff. He has eaten up much of my disposable income of late, but I do intend to keep him around to the end. With that said, is there a better or more cost effective means? Brembo is great on the 2020 bikes for sure but I think it is pricier.

Should I change the disk as well? It seems to be in good shape judging only by feel. I see quite a few of you have changed that too. @Paul Bryant has a good write up with his set up. And I see @1K9 and @Tripps and others have all had a go at upgrading calipers.

Keep in mind guys, I do not even qualify as a shade tree mechanic, (I don't even have a tree).

I am on the Pretech website now but am confused as to which caliper: I do not see any supporting ABS or for the R3T, they just have R3R listed. I have sent them a message.

I look forward to your sage advise...

This is the smartest thing I did on the advice of someone. I bought this banjo bleeder bolt and put it on my front brake master cylinder. I did this because I had to remove the brake line temporarily to relocate for the risers I put on. Anyway, I did the plastic tie trick described here in the post. I tie the brake lever overnight and with the tie still in place I opened the bleeder valve the next morning until I heard a pop. It literally did pop. I closed the bleeder, removed the tie and the air was gone. I think I bought the bleeder from JEGs. Hope this helps. BTW...I only had to do the procedure once, but you may need to do it a couple times...not sure.

 

[barbagris]

Pretech's are lovely.

BUT If the brakes feel spongy - there is air or organic sponge'y shyte in there.

1) Flush (bleeders etc help here) and strip/clean.
2) Hoses (if there is shyte in there - flushing does nothing)
3) Pads
4) Master Cyl
5) Calipers.

 

[Gerald]

This is the smartest thing I did on the advice of someone. I bought this banjo bleeder bolt and put it on my front brake master cylinder. I did this because I had to remove the brake line temporarily to relocate for the risers I put on. Anyway, I did the plastic tie trick described here in the post. I tie the brake lever overnight and with the tie still in place I opened the bleeder valve the next morning until I heard a pop. It literally did pop. I closed the bleeder, removed the tie and the air was gone. I think I bought the bleeder from JEGs. Hope this helps. BTW...I only had to do the procedure once, but you may need to do it a couple times...not sure.

This is a very good tip, do you happen to know thread size or the part number you ordered?

 

[Gerald]

This is a very good tip, do you happen to know thread size or the part number you ordered?

I ran a tap in old cylinder came up with m10 x 1.25. This is available on Amazon, around $8.