I have both of these. The one with the slide hammer didn't work very well, but has better inserts for grabbing the edge of the bearings. The other one has a screw type puller, but the inserts have a small lip, that makes it hard to get under the edge of the bearing. Better than a hammer and a punch? Well, sorta, still a pain in the arse. :whitstling:
 
I have both of these. The one with the slide hammer didn't work very well, but has better inserts for grabbing the edge of the bearings. The other one has a screw type puller, but the inserts have a small lip, that makes it hard to get under the edge of the bearing. Better than a hammer and a punch? Well, sorta, still a pain in the arse. :whitstling:
Myself, I just scoot the spacer to the side and evenly tap the opposite bearing out with a punch. If I'm taking them out it's because I'm replacing them anyway.
 
I agree with most of what Rocket Scientist and Speedy says.
The problem seems to be that when u ckeck the bearing that u can not turn with your little finger (which is not a problem) there is a lot of things like try to lift the rocket off the the ground with your little finger and u fail so maybe u should get some titainum in your finger.
Problem #1
U replace the bearing because u think it is bad when it is actually good.
Problem #2
U cut 1/32 or .031 from the spacer trying to correct a problem it does not have without knowing the clearance that will cause total failure and maybe lock the rear wheel and cause a wreck.
Problem #3
U replace the bearings that were good and u screw up the pocket of the bearing that should not fit very tight then u can not tighten it to torque it to spects.
If it is not broke don't fix it.
i think that some one with the know how and the measuring equipment with some spare time should next time they pull a wheel measure the clearance and post before we have someone eating payment.
Jmo
 
I guess i should add while fixing my fork seals i could not turn the front bearing with my finger after torquing the front axle the wheel would slow rotate to the heaviest side down.
To me that says the bearings are fine.
 
I agree with most of what Rocket Scientist and Speedy says.
The problem seems to be that when u ckeck the bearing that u can not turn with your little finger (which is not a problem) there is a lot of things like try to lift the rocket off the the ground with your little finger and u fail so maybe u should get some titainum in your finger.
Problem #1
U replace the bearing because u think it is bad when it is actually good.
Problem #2
U cut 1/32 or .031 from the spacer trying to correct a problem it does not have without knowing the clearance that will cause total failure and maybe lock the rear wheel and cause a wreck.
Problem #3
U replace the bearings that were good and u screw up the pocket of the bearing that should not fit very tight then u can not tighten it to torque it to spects.
If it is not broke don't fix it.
i think that some one with the know how and the measuring equipment with some spare time should next time they pull a wheel measure the clearance and post before we have someone eating payment.
Jmo
I see what you are saying, how to check the bearings without removing/wrecking them. My plan moving forward, on all subsequent tire changes, with wheel removed, I will insert the axle through the bearings, place the appropriate spacers, tighten the nut to compress spacer, and see if they spin without roughness. If they do, they stay put. If they don't, out they come !
Shortening the spacer is not going to change anything but the position of the bearing in the rim. Go short enough with the spacer so the outer race bottoms in the rim before contacting the spacer, and you are going to put tremendous side load on the bearings and surly cause premature failure.
 
I see what you are saying, how to check the bearings without removing/wrecking them. My plan moving forward, on all subsequent tire changes, with wheel removed, I will insert the axle through the bearings, place the appropriate spacers, tighten the nut to compress spacer, and see if they spin without roughness. If they do, they stay put. If they don't, out they come !
Shortening the spacer is not going to change anything but the position of the bearing in the rim. Go short enough with the spacer so the outer race bottoms in the rim before contacting the spacer, and you are going to put tremendous side load on the bearings and surly cause premature failure.

Great idea
While it is out measure the depth of the bearing then gently tap the bearing to seat it and that will be the minamun clearance. I have the opinion that it was engineneered to allow the outer bearing to be able to move out/in without binding if it wears out. When triumph assembiles it u have a safe clearance for all wheels and also heat exspansion.
My tires r like new so it will be a long time before i pull a tire i hope.
 
Great idea
While it is out measure the depth of the bearing then gently tap the bearing to seat it and that will be the minamun clearance. I have the opinion that it was engineneered to allow the outer bearing to be able to move out/in without binding if it wears out. When triumph assembiles it u have a safe clearance for all wheels and also heat exspansion.
My tires r like new so it will be a long time before i pull a tire i hope.
My bearing goes in really hard. No way to seat it and the get it back out without wrecking it.
 
My bearing goes in really hard. No way to seat it and the get it back out without wrecking it.

When u put it back together the spacer will move it to its proper position but if it is tight then leave it alone.
Sonner or later some one will give us the answer.
 
I recon Fred is spot on... first time I noticed the bearing would not turn (rear wheel off) I reinstalled the wheel, tightened the axle to to the specified torque and slipped the brake pads out... wheel spun up nice and smooth.
I do this every time I remove the wheels... front the same, I check the bearings before I refit the brake callipers
Never had to replace wheel bearings on my rockets 👍
 
@Rocket Scientist @Speedy
My turn to learn a little bit more about the mechanical part of this bike.
First questions: are the bearings for the rear wheel the same on the Touring as on the Roadsters and older bikes? My rear bearings are the originals and have 83K miles on them. I have the wheel off at present needing a tire change and I am going to either paint the rim or have it powder coated. If powder coating it, I must remove the bearing first. It seems like I should replace them regardless. I have confused myself as a couple of vendors says the bearings fit both body styles.

Second question, I watched a video from DelBoys Garage where he did not use a press to remove his Tiger bearings.
Are the Rocket bearings held in place the same way with just an outer seal and a circlip? If so, I can remove and replace the bearings myself with the tools I currently have.
 
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