R3T let me down again, won't start.

Ted Gross said:
.... but no fog lamps.

May have be a mod on the fog lamps because the switch doesn't work and they are on all the time.
Click to expand...

I'm confused by what you have written - says no fog lamps but then all the time - do you mean you had modded because they weren't working off the switch and WERE on constant - however now not on at all?
If you modded, can you provide details of what was done please?
Was this a factory kit, or did someone retrofit these? (even when not direct from factory, the OEM kit comes with a harness including a relay that does NOT send current through the key-switch)

So are you suggesting I look at the connector splices and see if the Brown & Blue/Yellow wires are open. maybe a poor splice or over heated?
Click to expand...
Well it might be, or could be the switch - just have to inspect and see

rebellsport said:
Now he has to change to 35w back again or must install a relais
Click to expand...
Sorry, that does not compute - the aux lights ALREADY operate off a relay;
And the fuse will not blow because of 55W bulbs - the relay is supplied by Fuse 1 which is 15A - two 55W bulbs are less than 10A
 
barbagris said:
..... Might th clue be in the burnt terminal?
Click to expand...
Not sure if you mean now Chris, or as to why it failed to begin with?
It's been cut off and supposedly spliced so can't affect it now, so that puts the latest revision of the problem in another place*
But for the latter, yes, I'm suspecting the failure was possibly caused by adding the Aux lights to the Headlight circuit

*The danger now is that, having spliced those wires together, the next weak point in the chain is the switch itself, having to handle that extra current - it may have failed too now.

Once you're in a position to do some more checking Ted, with a meter available to you, we can do some more testing and I'll give you some more specific tests to narrow down the source of the current problem (no pun intended )
But also need to understand what was going on with the Aux lights to avoid problem just continuing to happen.
 
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Was wondering if the burnt connector was the result of an earlier bodge - and as you say the problem has now moved down the chain. If we know what flowed through that connector (or what should) maybe we'd (well by we I mean you) be closer.

I smell burning - though it could just be the Root Canal plugs that were seared in earlier.
 
How can your rocket be a pos if someone's shoddy workmanship caused your issues? I would be pissed at the person/shop that did the work! I would be really pissed at that shop that cut that whole connector out for one failed connection and for not trying to find out what caused it!!! If it was a triumph dealer that did this work I would have to make a call to corporate!!
 
Hi Ted,
You might like to know that when I bought my 2010 R3T, the same plug in mine had two wires by passed. They had been burned. (I have a new plug to replace the old one when I get up enough ambition to rewire it.)

I had no power at all when I turned the key on, worked on it about a week with lots of help from this forum and finally got to the problem.
You may find that whole process at this link if you have some time to spare:
Speedometer, Display, Warning light went nuts, now everything is dead.

My problem was a burned connector about 8 inches off the main battery wire (the smaller one) sitting just behind the right side cover.
Just for peace of mind I installed the Eastern Beaver Headlight bypass/relay kit. And put LED bulbs in the head, fogs, and parking sockets. If you do a lot of night riding, I'd suggest replacing the whole lens, though.

Hang in there. These guys can get you through it.
 
Ted Gross said:
Please send me info on the LED replacement units if you have it. Thanks
Click to expand...
There are loads - If you want top grade then JW-SPEAKER or Truck-Lite. But the Chinese are making copies. and some are not half bad.
Any 4.5" light that will fit a Harley should do the job. Ditto 7" headlights

If you do a lot of night riding - then really the best in 7" there is are the 8790 Adaptives made by JW-Speaker. Their 6045 lights Fogs would match the headlight.
My R3 has the twin smaller 5&3/4 lamps - so I have twin adaptives plus fogs and cornering lights in R+D.

If you do not do much night work then you don't need adaptive lights.
Then for a 7" headlight and matching 4.5" fogs - I personally would suggest Truck-Lite.
Homologated and cheap-ish. I have a Trucklite on my old Guzzi. Sees very very little dark

I will allow others to suggest the Chinese offerings - not sure I have seen any comments on 7"/4.5" copies.
 
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