Progressive fork spring install

HellFire

Legend
Joined
Aug 16, 2008
Messages
4,518
About to install progressive fork springs, obviously don't have the Triumph special tool to compress the shim. I made the keeper out of sheet steel, so I have that part ready to go.
Does anyone have a better idea than 1/4 drive extensions inserted into the shim holes as a substitute for the special tool?
 
Got the Progressive front fork springs installed using the "special tools" in the photo. Not something I recommend doing yourself if you aren't a mechanic. But WOW what a difference the 440's on the rear and the progressive damping springs on the front make. It doesn't ride like a dump truck anymore. The tires stay on the pavement and my butt stays in the seat over rough highway. I went with the standard rear shocks, but I would suggest getting the heavy duty 440's if you have a touring or ride 2 up often. I think that even with them adjusted to the limit, they could bottom out with the wife and some luggage. But with just one it's fantastic, the weight transfer works excellent when taking off hard from a stop and sudden jolts are all but gone. It's most noticeable when pulling into the driveway, it cushes over the curb now.
Good investment.
 

Attachments

  • 0905101535.jpg
    218.6 KB · Views: 513
  • 0905101534.jpg
    212 KB · Views: 503
Congrats on the change to the progressives, I purchased the black ones also but with the heavy duty springs. I know just what you are talking about the difference (no more bouncing out of the seat when you hit sharp bumps). Is it me or did you dial in a lot of pre-load in the shocks, or were you just trying out different settings when you took the picture.
 
They are maxed out in that shot, I was checking to see how much I could load on the bike. Going to Ocean City next week and I have a feeling I might have to send some of the luggage with a friends wife who is driving down. These might be very comfortable for what I normally use the bike for, but loaded down for a trip with the wife might over tax them. Guess there is only one way to really find out for sure ....

I have been riding with them dialed down to first ring from the top and the ride is fantastic. I spent a couple days on it without the Progressive fork springs installed and hated the harsh jolts from the front end. But with them installed (what a pain, my hands are still sore), the whole bike now rides smooth. I recommend the full package, front and rear.
 
I didn't change it, that would have meant taking the whole front end apart.
 
Did you change the springs with the forks still on the bike or did you remove them? I have got to do mine as soon as possible.

Big T
 
I did it with the forks on the bike, it's a two man job and isn't complicated ... just really hard on your hands without the special tool to compress the shim. It took at least 150lbs of force applied with 1/4 drive extensions to compress them far enough to insert the keeper.
The surprise happened when I got the first cap off the shock rod and it sank into the fork.
We were able to reinstall the caps by holding the rod up with long needle nose pliers while re-compressing the shim. If the top of the rod had not been hollow, I'd been screwed and needed to find something to screw to the rod. That's probably the way it's done in the shop, but I had no way to know what size the rod threads were until I opened it up.
 
Typically, USD forks are cheaper to manufacture and hard to rebuild. The other thing I don't like about USD forks or any modern slider is the abscence of an oil drain fittting at the bottom, something I rectify when I rebuild forks but it takes some machining. It's not a drill and tap and that's it procedure.

With no drain, you have to remove the forks and turn them upside down or flip the bike over D) to drain the forks. All for a little saved in the initial manufacture.

Fork oil needs to be changed out regularly. Ingress of moisture past the seals compromises the oil eventually.
 
The first procedure in the manual for the front suspension is changing out the fork oil. I saw the "remove forks and invert into suitable container" and about ****. Then there is the special tool to adjust the fluid level .... WHAT? For a bike nearly a large as a compact car, having to turn something upside down to drain the oil struck me as ludicrous. I guess I've never had a bike that didn't drain from the bottom before, seems silly to me but oh well ... nothing is perfect.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Valve spring compressor?
Replies
9
Views
372
Idaho Red Rocket 3
Fork seals and bushings
Replies
4
Views
1K
Hipporider
Are progressive fork springs worth the $
2 3
Replies
29
Views
3K
northernrider
How much fork oil do each fork hold
Replies
5
Views
1K
Journeyman
Heated seat kit install on 2020+ R3s
Replies
0
Views
190
HarryBo
Menu
Log in
Register