OK - It's R+D time. Lights naturally

So what angle?

  • 5º

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • 10º

    Votes: 1 14.3%

  • 15º

    Votes: 5 71.4%

  • 20º

    Votes: 1 14.3%

  • 25º

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    7
Here's a silly thought.

Compasses float to keep level, lighthouse lamps floated.

If the head lightbulb "floated" and kept horizontal, would that improve the beam going around a corner?
 
lionel said:
Here's a silly thought.

Compasses float to keep level, lighthouse lamps floated.

If the head lightbulb "floated" and kept horizontal, would that improve the beam going around a corner?
Click to expand...
Not silly at all - it's what BMW have tried to develop using a mirror. - But it still aims ahead - not to one side or t'other.
 
We could develop a simpler version of a gyroscopic stabilizer to keep the headlights level... kinda like the one's used in modern combat vehicles to keep the weapon systems on target over uneven terrain. Even program it to aim the lights into the curve.
 
On a Valyrie I borrowed from a friend once, his fog lights were set to crisscross and were angled up about 10 degrees; seemed silly to me at first. But I got the chance to try them once at night and it did help on the back roads where no street lights were. I rode with them off under the street light though as they were somewhat annoying when not in the twisties...
 
Wouldnt simply angling a set of driving lights outward, say 10 degrees be a simpler and cheaper fix? Im thinking that if banking right and my headlight fires more left, the right driving light that was aimed off to the right will now fire more forward. It wouldnt be a self adjusting system, but the KISS principle is there.
 
Simpler - yes. But will blind other road users when you're upright. And certainly not legal here.

I'm still in R+D mode.

A have the lights with a 25º angle - higher at the outer edge.

I have them switching on at 10º lean.
They stay on until I come upright to 4º again. Law here states they can't operate +/- 3º from vertical.
The angular detection depends on 4 samples over time - 1/10 second apart.

Tried instantaneous and 2 samples and the switching was a little unstable.
Any more than 4 and the switching turns into what the mfr describes as "Bubble in Honey" damping.

Deliberately using slightly lower lumen output LEDs. 800 lumen more or less.

DO NOT TRY TO ZERO THE SENSOR OR ADJUST ON A WORK BENCH - THE STEEL BENCH SCREWS UP MAGNETIC FIELD DETECTION.

In hindsight - the more expensive version with gyro and magnetic detection might have been a better bet.
 
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