oil crazy

ok I took my bike in to have the back brakes done and they say I had a recall on my 05 something to do about the idaling wich I thought was fine? but they fixed it free.
Anyhow I said how much for a oil change and they said $235.00 I all most fell over.
They said that the synthetic oil for 2 gallons is $135.00 my Rocket takes a gallon in a half he said I can keep the rest. I said they used to charge me like $100 in Seattle and they said they must of not been putting synthetic oil in so I said then put normal oil in? And they said that there a dealer and they can't put any other oil in then synthetic oil because thats what Triumph say and I said the other place was a dealer as well he said he can't that you shouldn't put any other oil in the Rocket then synthetic oil.
Is this true? Does every one put synthetic oil in there Rocket and pay $135 for two gallons? and another $100 just to change it?

I do mine myself, at about 10 bucks for the filter, another few bucks to replace the washers, maybe 60-70 for the oil. It's once a year insurance. The tragedy of poorly performing oil could be catastrophic failure.

Canada may be pricier. Cane, how's the situation with your daughter? Hope she's straightening out!

Saboteur, I'm still in Utah my wife and Jacqueline is in Toronto I'm not leaving until April 24.
So are you putting Synthetic oil in your Rocket? Any you get the oil for $60- 70 or what kind of oil are you useing?
Wow if your useing syntheetic oil and getting the same thing for $60- $70 and the dealer here in Utah is chargeing me $135. Well if this is what kind of oil I need to put in I better learn how to do it my self.

Well my daughter is doing better she is hanging out with better kids that is getting better grads and while I was there I got to meet some parents that seem to be vary nice.
But I came back to Utah and just last week my wife phones me up and says that she got rushed to the hospital that she passed out. Well she was in the hospital for six hours before see was seen and she was up and talking and they said well no need to do any blood work because she is up and around my wife said yea it just took you six hours to see her who knows what was in her?, so they let her go my wife went to grab her to get her in the car and she called her a ***** and took off on her she was just to strong for my wife to hold. So we looked in to putting her in some kind of rehab and because she is 16 in Toronto now she is a adult so they will not take her unless she agrees.
Well the pot things she's not doing it as much so thats good the drinking she's not doing as much so it seems to be better. I did drink as well but I was smart enough not to get cought hopfully she will find her way soon.

Thanks for asking any inpovment is a good sign now we just need to get her a job and get her to care about life.

Absolutely using the synthetic. If I remember, Flip changes it out and saves it for his diesel tractors. It's good for 10,000 miles, so it's only once a year in the north, whether I've reached that mark or not. I assume that even synthetics also become acidic with use and shouldn't be left sitting all winter, so I make it a practice to change out all oils in the fall, push mower, riding mower included. Shop around for the best price. Locally, I have one place only that carries Mobil1, and I refuse to drive 50 miles to shop for almost everything. The other bits, filter and washers can be shipped in from my dealer who's a hundred+ miles south.

I'm sure you'll get lots of comments on choice of oil. Hellfire likes 5w30 in everything. Some prefer Castrol which is newly approved from Triumph. Consensus seems to be all 4T synthetic oil will be fine.

And stay away from oils that contain friction modifiers. That stuff will frack your clutch plates and they'll slip uselessly.

Any improvement is a good sign. Hopefully she'll begin making mature decisions as she matures. I raised boys. Thank God.

Lucas full synthetic motorcycle oil is about $10 a quart same as Mobile 1 motorcycle oil, both at Advance Automotive.

The last quart I bought at the dealer was $17.50

..that is probably the normal dealer price...sounds like what mine charged at the 10,000 mile service..get 6 quarts of Mobil 1 4T for 10 bucks a quart at Auto Zone and change it yourself...don't forget the filter..there are cross referenced numbers on here somewhere..

I fell over for you allowing someone to do your rear brakes you do not need any tools to change the rear pads it must be the most simple job to do on the Rocket, it is harder putting air in the tyres

20 dollars a gallon for Rotella t6 5w-40 synthetic at walmart, you can get the filter there too for about 3 bucks.....Supertech ST 7317. Its good to change out the crush washers but not mandatory. I have never changed mine and no leaks so far on my 05, but I will replace them at the next oil change.

I just don't get why Triumph here in Utah needs to sell 2 gallons for $135 for synthetic and another $100.00 to change it and oil filter just seems to be a lot.
So if I get the synthetic oil a WallMart does it take a gallon in a half? And does any one have step by step video on changing there oil? and there filter?
Does the oil filter just twist off? and when you do empty the oil then take the filter off is there much oil comes out when you take the filter off do I need to put a pan underneith?
Brakes is something I just do not want to play with no matter how easy it is if I can't stop for what ever reason I want some one to blame

Can someone post a link for Cane to get the digital service manual? Oil change is section 9 page 185-187, and you'll need a drain pan, 6 qts oil, new washers recommended not absolutely required, a torque wrench to apply correct torque, new filter, and about an hour to comfortably do the job. Can you level the bike with a lift jack or Flip's stand?

Early engines are up to # 217501. There are three drain bolts, and location depends on the year of your bike. An 05(early) will have one drain bolt on the bottom of the pan, left side, one bolt back from the front and inboard about 3 to 4 inches? That drains the tank. The other two drain the sump, fore and aft but are horizontal. Front is below the oil filter, aft one is in the same line front to back on the back of the pan. This is for early engines.

My book says all three are to be tightened to 25 Newton meters, 25Nm. which converts to 18.4 ft lbs by my calculations and a friendly reference on a RAT forum. (1Nm = 0.737562)

From the manual: Specification
Use a semi or fully synthetic 10W/40 or lSW/SO motorcycle engine oil which meets specification API SH (or higher) and JASO MA, such as Mobil 1 Racing 4T (fully synthetiC> or MobilExtra 4T (semi synthetic>.