Oh SNAP

To raffirm what you mention about header alignment - The CES Header lines up to my exhaust ports better than the stock one. It is "exactly", where it should be. The adjustment was definitely tied to the muffler section and not the header. A simple and permanent solution for CES to avoid any issues in the future would be to make the holes on the muffler hangar a slot instead of a hole.
 

Great idea IMO!
Would also allow for vertical height adjustment.
I considered slotting mine but, didn't want to fubar the chrome.
 
I went out fiddling with it tonight. Went through this procedure and it fixed the fitment to only require a very minor amount of upward pressure on the end of the muffler to line up flawlessly.

1: Loosened the muffler mount.
2: Loosened the Clamp.
3: Loosened the Headers.
4: Wiggled the muffler around a touch and heard a faint click, the sound of metal shifting from the front end. Clearly the headers moved the smallest imperceptible amount.
5: Used slight upward pressure on the end of the muffler and the footrest slid right in, so perfectly aligned.
6: Tightened in this order: Front bolt on muffler hangar, installed footrest and panel and tightened, tightened band clamp, tightened header.
7: No exhaust leak at the head, the tiniest little flutter at the band clamp (Could tighten more and it should go away, was trying to not crush the pipes), and a smoother sounding idle


Next step in the process, load my CES tune instead of my Hybrid Tune I had been running but.....

Ok so... my OBD2 FTDI cable is broken :/ New one is on order, so tuning will have to wait until it arrives.

Re installed all my data-logging stuff tonight for OBD2+Wideband capture. Understanding that these headers will accomplish both improving the scavenging effect and the ultimate flow capacity I have come across a somewhat surprising effect.

Not wanting to take the bike out tonight, I started it up and let it idle to see how much the CES effected my idle AFR. To my surprise it is actually a little bit richer at idle than it was before, but more than 1 full point leaner just off idle, when cracking the throttle the smallest amount possible, at about 1100 RPM. Looks like just adding a set % of fuel when installing headers is very much not the right answer.
 
I have found it necessary to keep a wrench handy for frequent tightening of the header nuts.
Lost one during the dyno so I keep a close eye on them.
 
I have found it necessary to keep a wrench handy for frequent tightening of the header nuts.
Lost one during the dyno so I keep a close eye on them.

G'day bull,to prevent any exhaust studs/nuts loosening I now use Loctite 2422 on exhaust studs/nuts ect even on the truck turbos ,helps prevent the thermal expansion loosening the threads enough for them to vibrate loose,never use Loctite 2620 as you need to heat the nut/stud to white hot (over 600f) to release the thread, thinking all loctites were the same I found out the hard way removing the turbo on our Mack R600 ,you cannot use a oxy"hot spanner" that close to a typical oily truck engine an expensive lesson. the 2422 always releases with a bit of gentle persuasion.
 

Thanx for this tip, Mate!
I shall go get some 2620 post haste.



Heh heh heh I really I shall purchase the 2422.

I found the 272 hi temp and ordered some.
 
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I plan on ordering some black steel lock nuts instead of a cap nuts that are stock to alleviate the loosening issue.
 
The headers are pure sex - but the muffler - dear god.
UGLY muffler
 
imho you could strap a large black phallus on the end and it would still look better than the stock chrome melon shooters lol.