Not Happy! 3rd brake bleed required.

[Mighty Mouse]

I guess they were too lazy to put it under the shield when the mids were installed. What does the front look like.

The third one isn't much help but here it is. I would have a chat with the knuckleheads that left your brake line exposed. It looks simple enough to remedy if the screws aren't striped on that is.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Took the Rocket out for a short 40 mile ride due to inclement weather. The rear brake seems fine and not as stiff as when I left the dealer but holding fine. It was 55 degrees though and I only went a few miles but everything seems good. Time will tell.

 

[Claudiu]

I replaced the rear brake line with a one piece hose made to order by HEL performance. With this opportunity I replaced all aluminium washers with new ones. Compound metal/rubber washers on ABS banjos and freshly annealed copper washers on the rear caliper. The brake hose was ordered a little too long so I twisted it around frame a little. I drew blood out if it yesterday and it holds well. Before I could feel it fading from a day to another. So I put on hold honing and servicing master cylinder for a while. Time will tell. The design still has a weakness with the two columns of fluid in front and rear hose having negative static pressure and having tendency to flow down to the master cylinder which is the lowest component of the system. If it still draws air over time I will check the cups of the caliper as Turbo200R4 says and maybe experiment with an external reservoir behind the radiator to add an additional column of fluid to compensate negative pressure in the installation. Next step would be for sure to replace all OEM lines with custom built ones since I had enough with Triumph ones. Thinking about Goodridge 600 series, the winter is long enough and it’s a pity to keep the toolboxes closed.

 

[stingray]

I replaced the rear brake line with a one piece hose made to order by HEL performance. With this opportunity I replaced all aluminium washers with new ones. Compound metal/rubber washers on ABS banjos and freshly annealed copper washers on the rear caliper. The brake hose was ordered a little too long so I twisted it around frame a little. I drew blood out if it yesterday and it holds well. Before I could feel it fading from a day to another. So I put on hold honing and servicing master cylinder for a while. Time will tell. The design still has a weakness with the two columns of fluid in front and rear hose having negative static pressure and having tendency to flow down to the master cylinder which is the lowest component of the system. If it still draws air over time I will check the cups of the caliper as Turbo200R4 says and maybe experiment with an external reservoir behind the radiator to add an additional column of fluid to compensate negative pressure in the installation. Next step would be for sure to replace all OEM lines with custom built ones since I had enough with Triumph ones. Thinking about Goodridge 600 series, the winter is long enough and it’s a pity to keep the toolboxes closed.

Interesting. Did you go all the way under the tank to the modulator or just to the hard line/ braided fitting at the swingarm?

 

[stingray]

Took the Rocket out for a short 40 mile ride due to inclement weather. The rear brake seems fine and not as stiff as when I left the dealer but holding fine. It was 55 degrees though and I only went a few miles but everything seems good. Time will tell.

Hope it holds up this time. I put a bit over a hundred on the clock yesterday with ambient pushing 90f and all still well.

 

[Claudiu]

Interesting. Did you go all the way under the tank to the modulator or just to the hard line/ braided fitting at the swingarm?

There is now only one braided line from the modulator to the caliper. I would have loved to remove the original line intact to pressure test it at the joints but I had to cut it to take it off. I only removed the tank and the side panels. I still suspect the joint between swing arm’s braided line and the rigid pipe because it hangs in the air without being clamped on anything and it takes all the stress from the movement of the swing arm.

 

[stingray]

There is now only one braided line from the modulator to the caliper. I would have loved to remove the original line intact to pressure test it at the joints but I had to cut it to take it off. I only removed the tank and the side panels. I still suspect the joint between swing arm’s braided line and the rigid pipe because it hangs in the air without being clamped on anything and it takes all the stress from the movement of the swing arm.

You ran hard line from the modulator to the swingarm? Got any pictures? I'm trying to envision how the swingarm can rotate with hard line. Seems like it would break after a while.

 

[Claudiu]

You ran hard line from the modulator to the swingarm? Got any pictures? I'm trying to envision how the swingarm can rotate with hard line. Seems like it would break after a while.

The hard line is hanging in the air being bolted only on the top on a bracket on the vapor canister. The lower part is crimped on the braided hose about 10 cm (4in) above the swing arm. The braided line is clamped on the swing arm. The rigid line does have a Z shape which I assume is supposed to absorb the move in the same manner they built the twists in the big oil pipelines to compensate the dilatation. But the crimped joint is not protected against axial and shear forces at all.

 

[Claudiu]

The hard line is hanging in the air being bolted only on the top on a bracket on the vapor canister. The lower part is crimped on the braided hose about 10 cm (4in) above the swing arm. The braided line is clamped on the swing arm. The rigid line does have a Z shape which I assume is supposed to absorb the move in the same manner they built the twists in the big oil pipelines to compensate the dilatation. But the crimped joint is not protected against axial and shear forces at all.

 

[stingray]

That is quite a piece they came up with. I like your idea of braided line from the modulator to the caliper. What length does it need without the extra loop?