Lube the splines...

[Gerald]

This didn't work because there is not enough threads for the bolt not to strip at the torque you need to seat the stud so next time in going to use these coupling nuts which should work good. I ended up doing as journeyman suggested, using two nuts tightened against eachother to jam it so it wouldnt move.

Take two of the right size nuts and screw on the stud, tighten one against the other, then tighten the top nut screwing the stud into the housing until tight, then with two wrenches loosen top nut and remove both nuts.

 

[Gerald]

Take two of the right size nuts and screw on the stud, tighten one against the other, then tighten the top nut screwing the stud into the housing until tight, then with two wrenches loosen top nut and remove both nuts.

Use regular size nuts, not the coupling nuts, waste of money on coupling nuts.

 

[Steff]

At a little over 8k miles I thought it time to lube the splines on the 3R. I'm one of the few who went through a final drive and drive shaft on the older models and have tried since then to do this with every rear tire change or, at least, every other, so every 4 -8,000 miles. Although there was a thin coating on the splines, it looked like it was about time to add some moly. I also change the final drive fluid with each tire change- it's cheap and easy.

The process was pretty straightforward- see pages 1256 - 1264 in the manual. Basically, remove the wheel, rear caliper, disconnect the ABS sensor and the wiring for the license plate, and the four nuts to the bevel box- lube and reassemble.

Here's what it looked like.....

Yeah, I bought a gen 1 a few months back and did the splines. They were bone dry and covered in that dried molly dust. Heck knows when they were last done. Luckily the splines were fine.

 

[2023R3GT]

I did another lube today at over 40K miles. The grease from the previous maintenance still looked pretty good, but time for a refresh. I think it was about 10k miles ago. I use a concoction of Molly grease from the auto parts store mixed with pure molly (I think I posted about this already), but I'm sure any good quality molly grease will be fine.

Lift bike- I backup he ATV jack with an overhead strap, but you could use blocks

Remove tire, remove rear brakes, remove ABS sensor here (T30)...

... drain the final drive and remove the license plate hanger (T50)

As before, lots of dirt accumulates here...

Clean and lube..

Add some extra grease to the end of the spring to help hold it in place

Use a jack, blocks, whatever to get the FD close to position. With the 2.5s you have room to grab the drive shaft and turn and angle it to get it to line up with the FD. Once in the right position it will slide on easily.

Note: I've done this without a jack and also kept the license plate holder on, but it is not worth the hassle. The FD is very awkwardly balanced. It's nice to be able to set it down close to the "goal" if things don't line up correctly and the license plate holder (just three bolts) just makes things worse.

- Torque the nuts and reinstall the ABS sensor. This is also a good time to relube the needle bearings on the outside of the FD.

See manual for further instructions and torque settings

did you replace the 4 big bolts? they onetime use to my knowledge…

 

[Journeyman]

did you replace the 4 big bolts? they onetime use to my knowledge…

No- you'll find that Triumph says to replace every bolt that has any kind of Loctite on it- even the ones that hold the plastic round badge at the center of your rear wheel.