Lifelong sportbike rider

jeantarrou

Standard Bore
Joined
Jul 28, 2023
Messages
10
Location
Rhode Island
Ride
2009 R3T
Hey folks, introducing myself as the new owner of a 2009 R3T. Been riding sportbikes my whole life, stopped riding the street about 5 years ago and was just doing trackdays with a Ducati Hypermotard then a fully built BMW S1000RR. Had a nasty wreck down at NJMP two summers ago on the BMW and decided to give the cruiser life a try, knowing full well the track is far safer than the street...

Anyway, I've only ridden the bike around the neighborhood, want to get a bunch of standard maintenance done to the bike as it's sat for almost 2 years, and oh my goodness this isn't anything I'm used to :eek: Body position and bike geometry are so foreign to me, I think the fact that my body is essentially "locked" into the bike is causing the most discomfort?

So going to get some seat time in, start getting comfortable on this beast, then begin identifying/prioritizing upgrades. Bike is mostly stock with the exception of some LED replacement bulbs and additional brake lights, if I had to guess I think I'll want to upgrade the front brake pads ASAP as they felt very weak during my little spin around the neighborhood. Then maybe some suspension upgrades, fueling , etc...

Going to pour through the forum as well, try and find some of the more typical upgrades like the battery cable upgrade?

Oh, and shame on me but I haven't taken a pic of the bike yet :rolleyes: Once I'm back from a work marathon I'll snap one and post it here.

Thanks folks,
Matt
 
HH EBC front pads will bring the bite you expect back along with a flush, it won't be sportbike sharp, but it's a lot better!

Front rotor replacements are dress-up parts, stockers can take a beating until they're dark blue without warping, usually warped fronts are the result of a sloppy tire change.

Shorter front tire and taller rear will drastically improve tip in by reducing necessary force at speed and willingness of the chassis to transition. It will also significantly help mid corner line change.

Racetech emulators and some shocks that are +1" length will massively liven the chassis some more.

Someone with more Touring seat time will have to comment on a seat that allows the posterior to be shifted left/right, but the R3s do behave a lot better cornering if you can drop a check off the inside and drop the inside shoulder toward the grip, same as sportbikes.

Enjoy the new wheels, and keep in mind the engine can easily write checks the ground clearance cannot cash when straightening out a curvy road!
 
HH EBC front pads will bring the bite you expect back along with a flush, it won't be sportbike sharp, but it's a lot better!

Front rotor replacements are dress-up parts, stockers can take a beating until they're dark blue without warping, usually warped fronts are the result of a sloppy tire change.

Shorter front tire and taller rear will drastically improve tip in by reducing necessary force at speed and willingness of the chassis to transition. It will also significantly help mid corner line change.

Racetech emulators and some shocks that are +1" length will massively liven the chassis some more.

Someone with more Touring seat time will have to comment on a seat that allows the posterior to be shifted left/right, but the R3s do behave a lot better cornering if you can drop a check off the inside and drop the inside shoulder toward the grip, same as sportbikes.

Enjoy the new wheels, and keep in mind the engine can easily write checks the ground clearance cannot cash when straightening out a curvy road!
Appreciate this reply, was just searching the site for brake pad recommendations and I saw you suggesting the EBC's in an older thread, I'll likely be giving them a try. In regards to the fluid flush, I figure regular DOT 3/4 is good enough for a bike like this?

Good call on the tire profile changes, and I'm gonna start saving my pennies for suspension improvements.
 
I use DOT 4 Honda fluid, but any 4 should be fine.

Fair warning you may be able to hear the HH pads in motion with stock pipes as a slight whine, but I will never run another pad. The EBC HHs get stronger as temp goes up, so when you need them most they get more aggressive, opposite typical street pads.

An easy, nearly free fork upgrade, swap the fluids out for 10 weight (15 if over 250lbs) with 5mm less air gap. Rebound improves from weight, compression improves from air gap. The combination nearly eliminates the mid corner chattering.
 
An easy, nearly free fork upgrade, swap the fluids out for 10 weight (15 if over 250lbs) with 5mm less air gap. Rebound improves from weight, compression improves from air gap. The combination nearly eliminates the mid corner chattering.
Ok cool, I'll put that on my list for winter maintenance, and I waiver over and under 200lbs so the 10 weight should be good.
 
WELCOME! to our R3 Family. Definitely get us those photos! Have FUN! with your new beast and Enjoy your new Perma-Grin... :thumbsup: :cool:
-MIG
 
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