Captain Bob

Supercharged
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
219
Location
MA
I just installed the auxillary light bar kit on my R3T yesterday afternoon. No big deal to install, just took some time. I had rolled the bike in my basement to do the work. Much warmer and my tools are there. It is beginning to get cool here in the Northeast. I am hoping to get on the bike this coming weekend to try out the lights. Hopefully, the snow will hold off.
 
Light bar

My bike came with the light bar and it is really great. It comes with 35 watt bulbs, changed mine to 55 watt and makes a big difference. Also take the weakass headlight bulb out and install Piaa brand Super Plasma bulb. It puts out 110watt on low and 125 watt on high but only draws current equal to stock bulb. It makes a huge diffrence also.
 
If you didn't install a relay or put it on an isolating circuit, you stand a good chance of melting the ignition switch.
 
If you didn't install a relay or put it on an isolating circuit, you stand a good chance of melting the ignition switch.
**** straight! Every headlight upgrade you do puts more strain on the switch.
You get bright white light just by bypassing the switch anyway.
 
The kit from Triumph contained a relay that you install so I guess I am good on that score. I was surprised to learn that the auxilary lights stay on when the hi beam is turned on. On other bikes they go off.

Great tip about the bulbs. I will check that out. Thanks LWC2300. :)
 
It's not the aux lights with the relay that causes the problem (it does actually use the ignition switch for the trigger, that does add a little more to the overall), it's the headlight running through the ignition switch. Touring has one less headlight of course so problem is less, but putting it on a relay directly from the battery will brighten it considerably. That yellow tint in the headlight will disappear and become a brighter "white" light even with standard bulbs.
It's a nearly "must have" modification for Standard and Classic bikes with dual headlights. Adding anything to the load on the switch (GPS, lights, etc.) will cause the solder points in the switch to become soft due to the heat from resistance. It's the soft solder that allows the wire to vibrate loose and cause all kinds of electrical maladies, including shutting off and not starting while driving down the highway (I had that happen on more than one occasion before the problem was found and fixed). It can also cause charging problems, intermittent power loss, gauge trouble and running problems like high/low idle and missing.

If those new aux lights look brighter than the headlight, it's because of the switch, not the bulb.
 
Definetely upgrade the bulbs. I did on mine with a set of PIAA Super White (only 3800K) both for the aux lights and the headlight. Made a huge difference. The headlight of course is H4 (55w low 60w high I think) and the aux lights are H3 (35w).
The PIAA bulbs draw the same amount of wattage but output 100w/110w for the head and 70w for the aux. You will see the difference for sure.
Good Luck :D

mutt
 
It's not the aux lights with the relay that causes the problem (it does actually use the ignition switch for the trigger, that does add a little more to the overall), it's the headlight running through the ignition switch. Touring has one less headlight of course so problem is less, but putting it on a relay directly from the battery will brighten it considerably. That yellow tint in the headlight will disappear and become a brighter "white" light even with standard bulbs.
It's a nearly "must have" modification for Standard and Classic bikes with dual headlights. Adding anything to the load on the switch (GPS, lights, etc.) will cause the solder points in the switch to become soft due to the heat from resistance. It's the soft solder that allows the wire to vibrate loose and cause all kinds of electrical maladies, including shutting off and not starting while driving down the highway (I had that happen on more than one occasion before the problem was found and fixed). It can also cause charging problems, intermittent power loss, gauge trouble and running problems like high/low idle and missing.
If those new aux lights look brighter than the headlight, it's because of the switch, not the bulb.

I second this, I will go so far as to say that you "Will" have problems if you don't fit relays.
 
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