atomsplitter
Living Legend
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2007
- Messages
- 3,080
- Location
- Keller, TX
- Ride
- 17 T-120 Black, 20 Bobber Blk, 22 Speed Triple RS
Well Juggernaut (Marcus) came through with the tools, Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse came through with new springs and oil, all that was left was a few hours in the shop.
Started dissasembly by getting the bike situated on the lift.
Next came the strip down of parts from the forks. I used a zip tie to hold the brake calipers off their hoses and dangled them from the turn indicators.
Next came the front fender:
To remove the wheel I use a 12mm allen with a second allen to snug up the fit. THe axle isn't gorilla tight since two pinch bolts keep the axle from backing out.
Everything off and the fork pinch bolts (one at top two at bottom) are all that's holding the forks on.
Put the fork on the bench for the photo. Put the business end of the fork in a vice with plenty of padding and back out the top cap. I used a pair of channel locks gripping a flat rubber bungy to hold the top tube while I unscrewed the cap. If you have it tilted down like I did, put a catch basin under it to hold the fork oil that's going to come out. The cap isn't under spring pressure so you don't have to worry about launching it into orbit. With the cap unscrewed the damper rod can be exposed. Here's where Juggs tools come in. First use the compression tool to slide the retaining plate under the lock nut. The top tube is a spacer with holes in it for the tool to penetrate so you can push down on the spacer tube and slip the slotted plate (tool) under the lock nut.
Then you can use a 14mm open end wrench and back off the lock nut to remove the cap.
Drain ALL the oil out.
You can work on one leg while the other is being drained. Most manuals tell you to leave the forks upside down over night for the best drain out. Reassmbly requires using the long tool threaded onto the damper rod after fresh oil has been added and pumped through to evacuate all the air from the lower leg. Put the new springs in (reuse the retainer from the stock springs), and then compress the spring using the tool.
Make sure the lock nut is 15.5mm (yeah sure) from the top, or at least make both of them the same. Thread the cap back on the thread the cap back into the top tube and slide back into the tiple tree.
Take a little time to polish things up as you go.
And you're done!
Started dissasembly by getting the bike situated on the lift.
Next came the strip down of parts from the forks. I used a zip tie to hold the brake calipers off their hoses and dangled them from the turn indicators.
Next came the front fender:
To remove the wheel I use a 12mm allen with a second allen to snug up the fit. THe axle isn't gorilla tight since two pinch bolts keep the axle from backing out.
Everything off and the fork pinch bolts (one at top two at bottom) are all that's holding the forks on.
Put the fork on the bench for the photo. Put the business end of the fork in a vice with plenty of padding and back out the top cap. I used a pair of channel locks gripping a flat rubber bungy to hold the top tube while I unscrewed the cap. If you have it tilted down like I did, put a catch basin under it to hold the fork oil that's going to come out. The cap isn't under spring pressure so you don't have to worry about launching it into orbit. With the cap unscrewed the damper rod can be exposed. Here's where Juggs tools come in. First use the compression tool to slide the retaining plate under the lock nut. The top tube is a spacer with holes in it for the tool to penetrate so you can push down on the spacer tube and slip the slotted plate (tool) under the lock nut.
Then you can use a 14mm open end wrench and back off the lock nut to remove the cap.
Drain ALL the oil out.
You can work on one leg while the other is being drained. Most manuals tell you to leave the forks upside down over night for the best drain out. Reassmbly requires using the long tool threaded onto the damper rod after fresh oil has been added and pumped through to evacuate all the air from the lower leg. Put the new springs in (reuse the retainer from the stock springs), and then compress the spring using the tool.
Make sure the lock nut is 15.5mm (yeah sure) from the top, or at least make both of them the same. Thread the cap back on the thread the cap back into the top tube and slide back into the tiple tree.
Take a little time to polish things up as you go.
And you're done!
