I bought an infrared thermometer. Rode for an hour and it read 51C on final drive 55C/131F at the spindle. :/
Dropped the FD oil anyway, it looked good. Little metal dust as usual on the magnet, but the oil looked good for 4500km since last change.
Took the tire off, one bearing is almost seized. I can't turn it without tools. :O
My dealer has the bearings in stock but the seals are on order... So I also ordered new cush drive rubbers, there is a lot of rubber dust coming out of there.