Cobba
Supercharged
As the title says.
I have spent the past few days reading and trying to see if I can find an answer to this before bothering anybody else with it.
The idle issue is very much the same as discribed by Georgia Cruiser with his bike.
High idle after running for awhile. Kill switch temporarily fixes the problem.
http://www.r3owners.net/general-tec...-warmup-kill-switch-temporarily-corrects.html
Can't say I am overly happy with killing the engine on the run as the diagnostic's go back into start mode (as in when the key is first turned on and the lights and gauges do there thing) but the engine comes straight to life at road speed when I flick the switch back on. Maybe I should be pulling the clutch and re-starting with the starter motor instead.
Now, I am pretty sure that the high idle can be resolved with either a new TPS or Stepper motor and am already asking my local dealer for price and availability, but the Tacho seems a little unusual and I am not sure if related to this, caused by the killing of the engine at speed, or a totally separate issue.
Symptoms
If I am riding along at a constant speed (120Ks) and I decide to hit the gas, the tacho goes spastic as I accelerate away (fine when running at a constant speed).
It will go (as the revs build) from 3,000 to 8,000, back down to 4,000, then back to 8,000 and so on. The lower readings are comparable to the true reading of the engine, but it peaks out every second or so as I accelerate.
It looks very much like when the ignition first gets turned on and the lights and everything do there thing, except the speedo doesn't do it as well. It reads true.
Was only one thing I could think of that might relate to the 2 issues so I came home and cleaned the Crank angle sensor and went out again.
Both problems still there.
Now. I have gotta add this bit so the picture is clear.
This week I have just done a bypass for the headlight power, and an ignition relocation with a Rivco kit.
The bypass was the first one done and a home made job using 2 relays.
Power is direct from the battery and I cut the high and low beam wires in the main loom on the down stream side of the dipper switch and used the old wire as the activation wire for the relay.
I rode it for a day after this and the Tacho problem wasn't there after I did this upgrade.
Only other thing I can think of is that the ignition switch is already on the way out and moving it and the abuse applied to get the old tamper proof screws off could have been enough to cause it to faulter, but the engine doesn't cut out at all, just the Tacho has a spaz attack.
I have spent the past few days reading and trying to see if I can find an answer to this before bothering anybody else with it.
The idle issue is very much the same as discribed by Georgia Cruiser with his bike.
High idle after running for awhile. Kill switch temporarily fixes the problem.
http://www.r3owners.net/general-tec...-warmup-kill-switch-temporarily-corrects.html
Can't say I am overly happy with killing the engine on the run as the diagnostic's go back into start mode (as in when the key is first turned on and the lights and gauges do there thing) but the engine comes straight to life at road speed when I flick the switch back on. Maybe I should be pulling the clutch and re-starting with the starter motor instead.
Now, I am pretty sure that the high idle can be resolved with either a new TPS or Stepper motor and am already asking my local dealer for price and availability, but the Tacho seems a little unusual and I am not sure if related to this, caused by the killing of the engine at speed, or a totally separate issue.
Symptoms
If I am riding along at a constant speed (120Ks) and I decide to hit the gas, the tacho goes spastic as I accelerate away (fine when running at a constant speed).
It will go (as the revs build) from 3,000 to 8,000, back down to 4,000, then back to 8,000 and so on. The lower readings are comparable to the true reading of the engine, but it peaks out every second or so as I accelerate.
It looks very much like when the ignition first gets turned on and the lights and everything do there thing, except the speedo doesn't do it as well. It reads true.
Was only one thing I could think of that might relate to the 2 issues so I came home and cleaned the Crank angle sensor and went out again.
Both problems still there.
Now. I have gotta add this bit so the picture is clear.
This week I have just done a bypass for the headlight power, and an ignition relocation with a Rivco kit.
The bypass was the first one done and a home made job using 2 relays.
Power is direct from the battery and I cut the high and low beam wires in the main loom on the down stream side of the dipper switch and used the old wire as the activation wire for the relay.
I rode it for a day after this and the Tacho problem wasn't there after I did this upgrade.
Only other thing I can think of is that the ignition switch is already on the way out and moving it and the abuse applied to get the old tamper proof screws off could have been enough to cause it to faulter, but the engine doesn't cut out at all, just the Tacho has a spaz attack.
