Hey Guys

[idk]

Welcome.

 

[1K9]

 

[Bernard Vinet]

Welcome from Montreal, Bienvenue .

 

[Bedifferent]

Welcome from Coldwater, MI. I would start with the switch as well although I have never had an issue. First thing I did on my R3T was the the Eastern Beaver relay wiring to take a load off the switch. LED headlights are a good choice regardless. The dual headlights seem to be more of a problem with the switches. If you do the EB kit, pull the harnesses apart under the tank while you have it lifted. Check all the connections. If it turns over and cranks but won’t start, you might want to check your battery as well. Many people seem to overlook this. If it is older than three years put a new one in next spring. It needs a good battery to run in spite of it being able to crank. If you are handy, you can bypass the clutch switch or check it’s function unplugged with an ohm meter. There is a downloadable manual with wiring diagrams here on the forum. People will need more info to take you further....like...Do the lights turn on when you turn on the key, do the gages sweep, fuel pump run....check the voltages at the fuses with a test meter base on what you find in the circuit diagram. I’ll have to check the diagrams I store on my phone and edit this to say more. @DEcosse has done kind of a flow or troubleshooting chart that covers problems like this. Search the forum.

Fuses 12346 and 7 should always have power across them directly from the battery.
Fuses 5 and 9 being energized with the key on are of particular importance for starting, but I believe 8 and 10 are also energized on the classic as 8 is linked directly to 9.
The 30 Amp fuse number 2, provides the main power feed to the switch.

I would certainly be checking for good connections on 2,5 and 9 as well as the main fuse 11

 

[ant]

Hello and welcome from the UK..