Help!! Ignition tables

[tsmith]

Tune ECU Help!!

I have a 2011 Roadster with pc5 and at, triple K&N with cut claw, and full jardine exhaust. I know that F1-F3 represents fuel for cyl 1-3. Does I1-I3 represent ignition for cyl 1-3? Also if it represents gears where is 4 & 5? And lastly will changing I1 & I2 to look like I3 really help performance?

Please help and only answer if you are sure. Don't want to screw up my beautiful baby.

 

[dougl]

No takers? Hmmm. I(N), I1, I2, and I3 are the tables for neutral, 1st, 2nd, and 3-5th gear. Can't help you on screwing with the advance by copying I3 into I2 and I1. If you do it and get pinging in the lower gears, you should change it back.

 

[BuffaloR3]

Yes, changing the maps to be identical to I3 will remove the torque limiter in the first three gears (combines with changing your secondary butterfly settings). The main power reduction comes from the advancement tables I1 and I2. For those less inclined to mess with your ECU the GiPRO will accomplish the same thing.

 

[Power-Tripp]

I1 = Ignition timing in gears 1-3.
I2 = Ignition in 4th gear.
I3 = ignition in 5th gear.
I(N) = ignition in neutral.

Do you know why you want to muck with ignition advance.
Do you know why you might not want to muck with it?
Do you have a way to measure changes to ignition timing without mucking up the engine?

More is not always better.

First rule of mapping - "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should."

 

[dougl]

I1 = Ignition timing in gears 1-3.
I2 = Ignition in 4th gear.
I3 = ignition in 5th gear.
I(N) = ignition in neutral.

Do you know why you want to muck with ignition advance.
Do you know why you might not want to muck with it?
Do you have a way to measure changes to ignition timing without mucking up the engine?

More is not always better.

First rule of mapping - "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should."

Excellent advice.

 

[RockyIII]

Was just reading this and am interested to know, the only mod on my bike is a full free flowing exhaust system (headers back, no cat). Could I just use OEM tune 20226 (aftermarket exhaust,cat removed) and open all the secondaries to 100% and copy the ignition tables from I3 to I1&I2?
Would I need to change anything else or would that be it?
Would the bike run better/be faster like this?

Just curious to know what the difference would be as I'm inexperienced with all this Thanks.

 

[Power-Tripp]

Was just reading this and am interested to know, the only mod on my bike is a full free flowing exhaust system (headers back, no cat). Could I just use OEM tune 20226 (aftermarket exhaust,cat removed) and open all the secondaries to 100% and copy the ignition tables from I3 to I1&I2?
Would I need to change anything else or would that be it?
Would the bike run better/be faster like this?

Just curious to know what the difference would be as I'm inexperienced with all this Thanks.

Opening the secondary throttles will demand even more fuel.