Mainly for UK members that might suffer from the high import costs of getting hold of an EB kit or those that may be put off with the complexity of a twin-relay mod, this topic details what is involved in fitting a single-relay version.
There are arguments for and against both systems that have been previously discussed in other topics on here so I don't think it necessary to repeat them.
All of the items used were bought from Vehicle Wiring Products (
www.vehicleproducts.co.uk).
Item List:
1mtr of each - BROWN, BLUE & BLACK 16.5amp PVC Thinwall Cable - Ref.16 @ £0.32p per mtr
2 x In-Line Slice - Ref. RHS @ £0.44p ea.
2 x 6.4mm Ring Terminal - Ref. RR6H @ £0.42p ea.
1 x 30amp 4 Blade Fused Relay - Ref. R30F @ £7.25p
1 x Relay Socket incl Terminals - Ref. RS @ £2.16p
1 x 20amp Blade Fuse - Ref. FB20 @ £0.15p (this to replace the 30amp fuse that comes with the relay)
Items already had:
Cable Sleeving
Shrink Tube
Adhesive PVC Tape
The simple sub-loom before fitting: Replace the 30amp Relay fuse with the 20amp.
Remove seat, l/h side cover and battery terminals:
Detach Starter and Indicator relays (removing both relays makes for easier access).
Cut the plain BLUE cable. I peeled back the sleeving a few mm to expose more of the cable and then cut midway.
Mount the relay behind the battery low enough to have clearance for the tool tray. Feed the wires through to meet the Starter Relay.
Splice the BLUE wires - the wire end nearest the Starter relay must be spliced to the wire going to terminal 86 on the fused relay (see diagram).
Terminals on fused relay:
Brown (positive) wire from battery to 30
Black (negative) wire from battery to 85
Blue wire 'Starter relay end' to 86
Blue wire 'going back into loom' to 87
Wiring diagram: