Got a hic up

[RocketmanBristol]

Yep, I missed the ball. Soldering a new terminal end on would be fine !

Thanks for that.

 

[TURBO200R4]

if it was me i would crimp first then solder just in case it got extra hot.

 

[2012cliff]

Does anyone have pictures. Not sure if I have this sorted out yet. Its been cool here and the bike has been running pretty good. The test will come when it gets hot outside

 

[Bedifferent]

Sorry Rocket Scientist I think we got crossed wires..............pun intended,what I was trying to ask is it ok to solder the pull off crimp connector rather than the wires directly to the coil.
If the crimp is the weak link why not use a better/ new connector with a soldered joint or will it cause another problem with resistance Oe something?

When I crimp a connector it "always" gets soldered as well...followed by some heat shrink tube. I despise crimped connections, especially on a motorcycle.

 

[ThisGuy]

The whole crimp vs solder vs both thing seems to ultimately be a religious debate that 99% of the time doesn't matter.

Why do I say that? Every source I've ever read/heard in the most demanding electrical applications (racing, NASA, etc.) says you don't solder crimped connectors using stranded wire. Many hobbyists and a heck of a lot of pros do it anyways and never have a problem. Conclusion? The vast majority of the time it probably doesn't matter, either works for people, do what you want. Though technically not best practice, most people don't use quality connectors and the proper crimping tools, so belt-and-suspenders soldering might be an improvement over a bad crimp.

My expertise: None. Just a ton of reading of things like NASA technical standards and from aviation/marine pros to learn how it's done where the costs of failure are highest. Otherwise, I'm just another guy on the internet. Not trying to claim anything I'm not, just passing along what I've learned.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

A lot of people use a "crimping" tool. Which I think are about as useful as a bent dink. The wire can pull out.

I use a "staking" tool. You turn the connector so the seam faces away from the pin side of the tool and it compresses a square pocket of metal into the wire. You can't pull them off.

 

[Bedifferent]

The whole crimp vs solder vs both thing seems to ultimately be a religious debate that 99% of the time doesn't matter.

Why do I say that? Every source I've ever read/heard in the most demanding electrical applications (racing, NASA, etc.) says you don't solder crimped connectors using stranded wire. Many hobbyists and a heck of a lot of pros do it anyways and never have a problem. Conclusion? The vast majority of the time it probably doesn't matter, either works for people, do what you want. Though technically not best practice, most people don't use quality connectors and the proper crimping tools, so belt-and-suspenders soldering might be an improvement over a bad crimp.

My expertise: None. Just a ton of reading of things like NASA technical standards and from aviation/marine pros to learn how it's done where the costs of failure are highest. Otherwise, I'm just another guy on the internet. Not trying to claim anything I'm not, just passing along what I've learned.

I understand the issue as solder on and between the strands of wire which tends to make the wire brittle. The trick is to not let the capillary action of the solder migrate beyond where it might be flexed. Most of the solder connections I do are not in a position to be flexed. The heat shrink tubing also helps eliminate flexion and breaking. It gives me piece of mind knowing I not fighting corrosion, oxidation or a potentially loose connection.

 

[Mittzy]

I did this before it became a problem.

 

[leatal]

My technique is to remove only enough insulation to fit the exposed end entirely into connector fitting, solder the exposed end, insert into connector, crimp and then add a covering of marine grade heat shrink over the last inch or so of wire (including the connector). Makes for a good solid connection and will not loosen up. By the way, Harbor Freight has the best price for marine grade heat shrink, about five bucks for a box of assorted sizes.