Fuel Pump Relay clicking and gauges flashing

The connector is under the tank on the harness on right side - it has a blanking plug with two wire loops on it.
It is very unlikely to be that.

What is your battery voltage?
Are your headlights on while this is going on? Are they on at full intensity? On steady, they are not blinking?
Also check that Fuse 6 is good.

The current path is:
Battery + .> Fuse 2 -> White/Blue to Key Switch; Green wire from Key-Switch to Kill/Run switch; Green Brown from Kill/Run Switch to Alarm connector jumpers and from there to the Relay and the Instruments;
 
The connector is under the tank on the harness on right side - it has a blanking plug with two wire loops on it.
It is very unlikely to be that.

What is your battery voltage?
Are your headlights on while this is going on? Are they on at full intensity? On steady, they are not blinking?
Also check that Fuse 6 is good.

The current path is:
Battery + .> Fuse 2 -> White/Blue to Key Switch; Green wire from Key-Switch to Kill/Run switch; Green Brown from Kill/Run Switch to Alarm connector jumpers and from there to the Relay and the Instruments;


Fuse #6 is good DEcosse


I pulled it out and its intact


(while I had the tank up again, even took the connector off the bottom of the tank, cleaned either end with contact cleaner - waited 30 minutes and reassembled it).

When I turn the key on, the gauges flicker and then after about 45 seconds, you hear that fuel pump in the tank firing like a laser (pew,pew,pew)
 
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You may be onto something when you said " Noticed when backing up the bike that as I turn the bars the gauges flickered on and off, all the warning lights coming on". To me that sounds like a bad connection/broken wire somewhere in the harness, where it flexes at the steering neck. The older rockets like mine had problems with ignition switch overheating and causing the main power wire to un-solder it's self. An intermittent connection will cause the ECU to keep doing the start sequence over and over I.E. guage sweep/fuel pump prime.
 
You may be onto something when you said " Noticed when backing up the bike that as I turn the bars the gauges flickered on and off, all the warning lights coming on". To me that sounds like a bad connection/broken wire somewhere in the harness, where it flexes at the steering neck. The older rockets like mine had problems with ignition switch overheating and causing the main power wire to un-solder it's self. An intermittent connection will cause the ECU to keep doing the start sequence over and over I.E. guage sweep/fuel pump prime.


Am with you there Rocket Scientist.

When the starter switch was replaced about three months ago, I'm guessing the cabling clipped to the bars and running under the tank was reassembled 'tight' so tended to pinch or pull when the bars were moved to their extreme extent. So when I went under the tank and cleaned that clutch connector switch I traced through everything I could possibly see or touch without major disassembly. Uncoupled any cables that looked like they were pinching or could pinch - rerouted them better, under instead of over - that sort of thing.

When I put the tank back down and remounted the gauges, made sure those cables had enough slack when I moved the bars to ensure they were not pulling.

I have finally decided today on a hard reboot of that ECM unit, just in case its tune has become scrambled .

When the bike was connected to the service laptop a week or two ago via its RIB connector we downloaded a richer tune #20355 for after market mufflers.
The bike started popping and you could smell fuel in the exhaust (it has standard, Triumph mufflers) - - bike still cut our randomly.
So a couple days later we backed it down again to the standard tune# 20352 and reloaded the software.
No errors seen on the diagnostic screen.

Bike still cut out randomly and no change on test ride.

Am hoping a hard reboot (have disconnected the black-positive wire for an hour or two), battery is fully charged from 36 hours on the tender now
--- will cause the ECM to power back up and reload its tune.

Lets see if that stops the gauges from flickering side-to-side and then doing the gauge sweep.
I'm hoping that fuel pump in the tank stops firing too like a laser in a Star Wars movie.
 
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There's good news and bad news this afternoon :)

Gauges have stopped their synchronous flashing back and forth between them.
Then the fuel pump relay has stopped clicking on and off too.
The fuel pump has stopped firing and the bike is silent when I turn the key on.
(Except for the sounds it usually makes as it boots up).

However :) the gauges wont light up at all now.
Its black out - bike starts though, and idles just fine.
Had it running in the garage for about ten minutes, revved the engine - everything appears normal.
The indicators, lights and horn all work just fine.

Gauges flickered a little and you can see something at home in there - warning lights lit up for a second, then went out again - so its trying.
I have a ride to work tomorrow, so be it - shall live to fight another day.
The thing that interests me more however is whether the bike will cut out randomly.

Over the past six months (I ride every day) - so that's 180 days, every trip the bike cuts out on me anywhere from once to four or five times a trip.
(no I don't work seven days a week, but you have to run to the store on your day off, go to the post office and so on).
The Rocket has to come to a complete stop, turn the key off - wait a bit, turn it back on again, boot up - restart and then see if it'll take the gear engaging.
Most of the time it does, but sometimes it gets unhappy and as soon as you engage any gear - it immediately cuts out again.
This has been my daily commute :)

You roll the bike (if you're lucky downhill) and start again, then try engage the gear shift with the bike moving and off she goes.
Till the next 'flame out'.

You could say this has happened about 500 times and sadly I can look at my route to work and home again (about a twenty minute ride) then recall just about every spot where I have suddenly come to a standstill, traffic behind me and people blowing their horns. Happy Monday folks!

(p.s. for those who may wonder, the 1050 Tiger has a starter switch problem too that is also random, you have to roll the bike around, try and turn the engine over manually and then hit the starter button. It starts about one try out of twenty. Trouble shooting on that continues (no scotch-locks this time) :)
 
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Got to love those ECMs - went to work this morning, no gauges, just the odd flicker but sunken in solitude.
Bike cut out twice, restarted both times - so was able to keep moving.

Was thinking maybe stepper motor(??) is it the fall detection switch acting up (?) is it that ECM unit trying to dump its tune (?)

Parked at work for 8 or 9 hours, to get paid to do something, got on to leave - nobody home in those gauges, pouting silently.

Started up and rode home - no cutting out at all (?)
Sitting at a light waiting, look down - gauges are on, displaying innocent as you please - all present and correct.

Engine warning light on, so tomorrow my buddy is back - will hook it up to the service laptop and hope we catch that error message.

Every time I start this bike its a new adventure :)
 
Today another issue resolved.
Noticed this morning that the ignition switch is not as responsive as it ought to be when turning the key.
Got to work just fine - no cutting out :) but once I'd parked - time to come home, the ignition would not turn on.
Took the key out the ignition, turned it around - put it back in again....still no response.
Did this three or four times and finally the bike was willing to start.

Rode home (without any gauges) and there, exactly as happened yesterday - the gauges suddenly sprang to life and acted as if nothing had happened at all.
Innocent as you please.

Got home and after leaving the bike to cool off - decided to open up the ignition switch housing and see what's going on with that cable running up inside there.


That cable I've marked 'A' runs in from under the tank and has a cover over it, which was tight.
So pulled some more of the cable through as slack to the ignition switch, put the cover back on and rubber boot.
Stuck the key in the ignition and turned it on...


look that happened :)
 
Hopefully it's fixed good detective work.

Thank-you Fingers :)

...proof is in the riding - we'll see how she behaves this next few days.
By the way, last three trips to work and home again have been cut out free, so maybe swapping #4 relay with #1 worked?
If she settles down, I'll just replace that #4 relay for $24 from Triumph and consider myself extremely lucky.
 
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