forced air issue

warp9.9- to clarify tho, we're not crossing any wires. we simply take a small bladed screwdriver, put it into the backside of the stater relay wire connector with the yellow wire going to BO6. then touch the blade of the screwdriver to ground and the bike will turn over and fire. we,re just shorting the yellow wire to ground at the starter relay to make the relay pass voltage to the starter hitting the start switch. the problem must be where the yellow wire goes thru the ecm to get grounded.

reading this post with interest.
You've definitely got the right Rocket man helping you.
You'll get it sorted out I'm sure of it.
Now, on another note, Welcome to the forum.

4ced-air15 said:

warp9.9- to clarify tho, we're not crossing any wires. we simply take a small bladed screwdriver, put it into the backside of the stater relay wire connector with the yellow wire going to BO6. then touch the blade of the screwdriver to ground and the bike will turn over and fire. we,re just shorting the yellow wire to ground at the starter relay to make the relay pass voltage to the starter hitting the start switch. the problem must be where the yellow wire goes thru the ecm to get grounded.

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Ok first do you have a manual for the bike or have you down loaded the manual from the .com site it is under ever post Bishop does in his signature line. I believe Hanso has it on his as I remember seeing him reference it. I am wondering if the start button does the same thing as the grounding with a screw driver does. the diagram shoes the wire from the start switch/button going to the relay. sending you my Phone number via PM you My phone number

Oh I sent a PM to Hanso as he is a superman of all that is electrical I am sure he can shead some light on this. (yes I planned the punn)

warp9.9 said:

Ok first do you have a manual for the bike or have you down loaded the manual from the .com site it is under ever post Bishop does in his signature line. I believe Hanso has it on his as I remember seeing him reference it. I am wondering if the start button does the same thing as the grounding with a screw driver does. the diagram shoes the wire from the start switch/button going to the relay. sending you my Phone number via PM you My phone number

Oh I sent a PM to Hanso as he is a superman of all that is electrical I am sure he can shead some light on this. (yes I planned the punn)

Click to expand...

Hardly think that I am that good Warpe but thanks for the compliment, but if I can help then I will.
firstly have you checked you are getting an good earth at the starter motor (check the voltage between the pos pole on battery and starter body it should be the same as between the poles on battery if less then try this run a heavy gauge wire directly to starter body mounting bolt from Battery negative pole) , Warpe has already covered the issue of making sure your connections are clean and greased with dielectric grease but have you checked All the electrical connections along the way and reapplied the grease, also is your Ignition switch still in good nick (wiggle the wires coming from the ignition switch while turned on watching for any abnormalities) have you fitted a Eastern Beaver relay kit or made your own (very easy)
A note on the dielectric grease you should go over your bike say once a year and undo plugs checking for arking or discolouration and regrease. I am suming you have checked the relay and All the postive connection on battery I recall TC had an issue starting his bike at RDU and it turned out to be a faulty connection in a plug coming from battery (I can't be to sure as I was a bit foggy due to painrelief I was on for knee) but TC may pipe in an tell more
THE DIELECTRIC GREASE WILL BREAK DOWN OVER TIME also open the handle bar switch blocks and regrease the the switches periodicaly, the electrical contacts in any switch can cause untold resistance if not kept clean and lubed.
hope there is something in all this that can help you solve your problem

Just a thought try running a tandem battery, I was haveing issues when I went to one of myrace marshalling gigs in a very cold part of the country and I was using the bike to save a half kilometre walk up the hill to the accomadation the battery was not getting enough recharge from starting in the cooler conditions so I fitted the Odessy battery that everybody was raving about and it was a waste of time, I ended up putting a battery from my Honda ST1100 in the air box of the Rocket wired in tandem and have not had a problem starting since, a mate (Ruzzel) has gone one step better and fitted a much larger battery cut the rearside out of air box I think it it was about 370 amp hour maybe more

I was thinking the starter button complets the negative cerciut like he was doing withthe screwdriver and th ebutton needed cleaning but I am no circut map reading guru Mine pays up every now and then with no click at all I pul her in gear and rock her a couple time just to bump th eengien a bit. Then when I PUSH the STARTER BUTTON IN SHE FIRES RIGHT UP.
I use 920 cca batteries hok together also not sure if it needed but Art says the better the electronics the better the bike runs period.
I believe him. Thought maybe soem one could look at the diagram in the maual the last one is for the touring. I also went with more ground but two cables since I had a extra one \.The originla on the back of the engine the second do to under the kickstand pad.

Hans I sent him a link to Bishops post so he could down load the manual from it.

warp9.9 said:

I was thinking the starter button complets the negative cerciut like he was doing withthe screwdriver and th ebutton needed cleaning but I am no circut map reading guru Mine pays up every now and then with no click at all I pul her in gear and rock her a couple time just to bump th eengien a bit. Then when I PUSH the STARTER BUTTON IN SHE FIRES RIGHT UP.
I use 920 cca batteries hok together also not sure if it needed but Art says the better the electronics the better the bike runs period.
I believe him. Thought maybe soem one could look at the diagram in the maual the last one is for the touring. I also went with more ground but two cables since I had a extra one \.The originla on the back of the engine the second do to under the kickstand pad.

Hans I sent him a link to Bishops post so he could down load the manual from it.

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sounds like your problem is the actual starter motor has a worn or burnt spot on the armature where the brushes make thier contact, what I forgot to mention with my not wanting to start was that the engine was turning over but there was not enought juice left in battery to give the electronics enought to fire the spark plugs, this is why as you were advised correctly by Art as to making sure you have an ample power supply. I checked out my Earth strap from the battery to engine block and it is big enought but with the engine being alloy it would be wise for any one to take it off from time to time and clean it in case there is any corosion caused by electrolisis especially if you live near the coast

thanks for all the responses here guys, i do have the factory printed manual for all the reference, so i''ll get to work on the suggestions.

Hey Hans I just got off the phone with 4ced air and during our conversation I thought of a couple more things soem which we normally tell people to check. The gear posision sensor in case the bike is still does not know its still in nuetral and th ecrank angle sensor which need speriodic cleaning so the ecu knows when to throw the spark. Anyway since his bike only turns over when he grounds the wire I started leaning towardsa things that stop the bile from turning over. I was wodering if you have heard of any of the Rocket touring models having ignition switch iisues like our. He does not have the Eastern Beaver kit on his. So I told him to wiggle the wires going into the ingntion switch to see if it make something connect. Hopefully th etoruing captians will chime in incase soemone has had this problem. I just had another thought which was I wonder if he is having a problem with the fall over prtection switch but do not know how to reset it or much about I must plead stupidity in this department. SO if you or anyone has some input lets help a fellow captian out.
I also told him to give WayneTrippa call inthemorningincase he has run into this problem before. Anyway Thanks for your help so far we might not have made any headway here yet but at lkeast he is getting some ecletrical switch cleaning. I also told him to check the low tension leads to the coils and watch th einjector plugs as when these get pulled off they sometimes donot get lock back on. Another thought is he just took the PCV off the bike which lkeas to another electonic connection that has been disturbed. Another thought is he just unhook the PCV I wondr if any of them connections are loose and not sending a signal.

Pedro he is joining the tech site I am off to bed if you see his request load him up please
Later dudes its Lortab time

You also need to check how many DTC's the bike has, fault codes in plain terms, first kit I fitted up took me an hour or two to sort same problem, I think the instructions tell you to remove map sensor, I refitted the wiring connector to the map but not the vacuum line from memory that brought the fault codes to 3 or less which then allows motor to fire every time, worth a shot, hope it helps.