electical problem

Thanks for your suggestions guys all good points to help solve the problem . Was workin today so no time to look . Herman fuse 30 looks good also fuse 6 which supplies power to management relay power on both sides .Itomis good battery holding 12.8v terminals are clean and tight. Atomsplitter I'll check what you suggested tomorrow. Something I was thinkin is it an earthing problem somewhere in circuit ? We'll see .

Also , its a little pain to check....Where the relays plug in under the side covers, check the tension of the slide on connectors inside the loom plugs....i've had a few loosen up over the years....also check for discoloration of the relay spade pins.

I've swapped the relays before, has anything changed? I also tend to believe that there is a bad contact somewhere. All that remains is to find this place.

I'd be swapping relays around to see if the problem changes, better still replace them one by one with new.
Also checking condition of pins on ECU plugs, could be poor connections due to green rust etc there giving weird problems and codes

today switched bike on with relays removed clocks lit up and done sweep . removed ecu checked pins all good . checked relay connector blocks ,good . So done some tests according to manual . P560 code test Got bat voltage at pin A20 . tests for code 1231 . pin b2 to ground reading o/l .fuel pump relay terminal 6 to 8 got continuity ,Pin b02 to A20 reading o/l i think thats all good .Only thing I thought was wrong was pin B02 to terminal 4 on fuel relay showed o/l on meter . then refitted ECU turned on clocks lit up an did their sweep so switched off an replaced the fuel pump relay ,ign on and no power to relay- bike stayed lit up , turned off pulled the pump relay an fitted ecm relay , switched on an bike went dead no power . pulled the relay an bike switched back on . SO i'll get new relays and try that {R111R suggestion } . Any feedback is welcome guys thanks .

"Gremlins" !!!!

for what it is worth you can unplug the ecu and the bike will still do the sweep with the checking of the test lights.
you can not do the ohms test with out the relays being in place also you can have one strand of wire and the ohms test will work . i always use voltage test that why i say never use the manual for tests. however it is good for information. it can ohm test and still only carry 7 volts when you need 12.
when you turn on ign with relays not connected you set all kinds of codes that you now need to erase b4 you check anything.
when you have an electrical prob you need to start at the battery and work your way out
check at battery posts, then check at the battery terminals that might tell you if you have a good crimp, then both sides of fuses then check volts at emr
then fuel relay.
now when you have lousy volts then you can check if you have a complete break which probably will not show anything because you have some volts.
now if you have 0 volts where you should have 12 then it is time for checking ohms.
when things get bad (like what is happing to you) i sometimes jumper the relays (for test purpose) number 30 main power to number 87 power to what you are trying to operate. i have also take a jumper wire that is fused and go from bat to 87 to eliminate all of the voltages that operate the component
hth

Thats some good info herman just what I needed ,was going by manual as that was my first reference .i'll certainly be following your test methods know you have plenty experience workin out this **** .I'll let you know how I get on , probably sat when I'm off work .