Coolant Temperature Issue

Samco make hose clamps which are pretty decent . go for stainless with a decent hex head as opposed to the slotted ones , much easier tightening them with a 7 or 8 mm socket . sounds like your stermostwat is a bit sticky ? As mentioned already , a cheap enough part to replace ! you can also lower the fan temp a couple of degrees so it cuts in a bit earlier ! probably a stupid question , but what condition is your radiator ? flattened fins will cause the bike to run hotter ! an air lock will generally result in water being pushed out of the puke bottle . If this isn't happening the problem leans toward a sticky thermostat . bit of a bugger to change on the roadster but will give peace of mind . Good luck !
 
Samco make hose clamps which are pretty decent . go for stainless with a decent hex head as opposed to the slotted ones , much easier tightening them with a 7 or 8 mm socket . sounds like your stermostwat is a bit sticky ? As mentioned already , a cheap enough part to replace ! you can also lower the fan temp a couple of degrees so it cuts in a bit earlier ! probably a stupid question , but what condition is your radiator ? flattened fins will cause the bike to run hotter ! an air lock will generally result in water being pushed out of the puke bottle . If this isn't happening the problem leans toward a sticky thermostat . bit of a bugger to change on the roadster but will give peace of mind . Good luck !

The radiator fins are not bent at all; it's in very good shape. I also feel the thermostat crapped out; once the new parts arrive, I wanted to test the new thermostat and old at the same time. Will keep you posted.
 
Just curious about the resolution to this. I recently did a coolant change, following the manual procedures. Afterwards I get a a small line of coolant down the block, just forward of the oil filter cap. I also just feel like the bike is running a little hotter, which is disappointing as I bought coolant that clearly states it helps the bike run cooler than OEM coolant. I checked the oil for any coolant film left on top and that was fine, checking for head gasket issue, so I think I'm out of the woods there.
 
Just curious about the resolution to this. I recently did a coolant change, following the manual procedures. Afterwards I get a a small line of coolant down the block, just forward of the oil filter cap. I also just feel like the bike is running a little hotter, which is disappointing as I bought coolant that clearly states it helps the bike run cooler than OEM coolant. I checked the oil for any coolant film left on top and that was fine, checking for head gasket issue, so I think I'm out of the woods there.
You may need to burp the system to ensure its full. What is the current level in the expansion tank cold? That's the overflow tank not the rad top tank. Also has the rad cap been replaced? Check the level in the radiator as full cold with the bike vertical off the side stand, is it full to the top? Is the expansion tank cold near the MAX line? Also check for any leaks and that all fasteners are tight.
 
Bike is between the min and max line in expansion tank when cold. The radiator cap hasn't been changed, if anyone has a link to a good replacement, I'm game for that. But the fluid is full in rad cap. I just let it warm up outside and cool down for about 30 min, cracked the bleeder screw and hurd some hissing until it expelled a little fluid.
Afterward I fired up the bike again on tuneecu. At idle temps got up to 105/106c, stayed steady and fan cooled back down to 100. This seems to be working ok, didn't hear any bubbling or hear any water noise when I shut everything down. I'll recheck for any line of coolant on block later. If it sounds normal, maybe I got the air out with that bleed screw.
 
That hiss was air coming out under pressure. Check the expansion tank cold again after a few rides and ensure it remains between MIN and MAX. There is a thread somewhere here that has a list of rad caps that should work.
 
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