Clutch switch alternatives

[Jhortz]

Hi all,

Long story short I'm chasing down an issue, but that's another story. I tried to buy a clutch switch today and found out the it isn't sold separately, and they want about $270 (AUD) for the whole L/H controls assembly. I've had a look and couldn't find anything about an alternative switch or supplier for the switch.

I've done a bit of internet sleuthing and found the switch is made by Alps Alpine and is only sold in bulk to OEMs, so it doesn't look like buying the switch direct from the manufacture is an option. I found the switch in the link below, just wondering if anyone can offer an information as to whether or not his will fit? Or does anyone know of an alternative?

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/185670450941

The part number is T2505005, if you check the number in google images you will get many more pictures of it.

Cheers

 

[Rick111]

Sorry I can’t help you . I would try it and see . Price level is cheap enough .
Perhaps another member will have an answer. Happy motoring

 

[r3badboy]

Hi all,

Long story short I'm chasing down an issue, but that's another story. I tried to buy a clutch switch today and found out the it isn't sold separately, and they want about $270 (AUD) for the whole L/H controls assembly. I've had a look and couldn't find anything about an alternative switch or supplier for the switch.

I've done a bit of internet sleuthing and found the switch is made by Alps Alpine and is only sold in bulk to OEMs, so it doesn't look like buying the switch direct from the manufacture is an option. I found the switch in the link below, just wondering if anyone can offer an information as to whether or not his will fit? Or does anyone know of an alternative?

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/185670450941

The part number is T2505005, if you check the number in google images you will get many more pictures of it.

Cheers

What year is the bike? I can't remember but isn't the wiring for the clutch switch part of the main loom
The switch looks very similar so if anything you could splice it into the original wiring.

 

[TURBO200R4]

Why do you think it is the clutch switch?

 

[r3badboy]

Why do you think it is the clutch switch?

Yes exactly, over 20 years & 6 rockets haven't had one fail, they only need a good clean here & there. I give them a good clean with electrical cleaner & then lube with silicone spray

 

[Jhortz]

Why do you think it is the clutch switch?

It's an enormously long story that I was going to post once I've solved the problem but I'll give you a quick run down now.

Bike hunts at idle (idle constantly bounces about about 50-100rpm, never stable), fluctuates between about 800, 1100, and 1400 rpm and tends to change every few seconds but is generally sits at 1100 rpm. The bike's power surges under heavy load in first and second gear and gets worse in the second half of the rev range. Also has some minor surging sometimes when holding about 1500-2000 rpm in lower gears. That's what it is currently doing, seems to have been slowly coming on over the last year or so, not really getting worse.

Started at the start, changed plugs, no difference. Found leads were rusty at coils and locking nuts were broken, replaced coils with coil overs, no difference. Found the head was cracked (externally, leaking oil). Got a new head, sent it to a guy I know with a local shop, he changed the head and started looking at the issue (ran it on the dyno, found it is leaning right out when it surges). Found pump pressure was a bit low, replaced pump, filter and regulator, small improvement in power but no change with idle and surging. By luck he also owns a rocket that is in pieces at the moment, swapped the whole throttle body assembly over from his bike and the issue is still there (this eliminated a large number of suspects). Also turned the O2 sensor off, no change.

So now I'm starting to dig deep. Read the clutch switch can cause some of the issues I have been having (i have also have occasional no starts and the fuel gauge can take minutes to read full after filling which are also indicative of a bad switch), I just cleaned the switch out and it made no difference. Have also seen that a bad GPS can cause problems with the engine changing maps and cause idle to sit at 1100 (I have also had occasional issues with the GPS not reading right), I've ordered the updated GPS so will whack that in when it arrives. I'm starting to run out of ideas, the guy from the bike shop lent his ECU to another shop to test on a bike, so he is going to get that back and try that.

But I'm all ears if anyone has a suggestion?

 

[r3badboy]

It's an enormously long story that I was going to post once I've solved the problem but I'll give you a quick run down now.

Bike hunts at idle (idle constantly bounces about about 50-100rpm, never stable), fluctuates between about 800, 1100, and 1400 rpm and tends to change every few seconds but is generally sits at 1100 rpm. The bike's power surges under heavy load in first and second gear and gets worse in the second half of the rev range. Also has some minor surging sometimes when holding about 1500-2000 rpm in lower gears. That's what it is currently doing, seems to have been slowly coming on over the last year or so, not really getting worse.

Started at the start, changed plugs, no difference. Found leads were rusty at coils and locking nuts were broken, replaced coils with coil overs, no difference. Found the head was cracked (externally, leaking oil). Got a new head, sent it to a guy I know with a local shop, he changed the head and started looking at the issue (ran it on the dyno, found it is leaning right out when it surges). Found pump pressure was a bit low, replaced pump, filter and regulator, small improvement in power but no change with idle and surging. By luck he also owns a rocket that is in pieces at the moment, swapped the whole throttle body assembly over from his bike and the issue is still there (this eliminated a large number of suspects). Also turned the O2 sensor off, no change.

So now I'm starting to dig deep. Read the clutch switch can cause some of the issues I have been having (i have also have occasional no starts and the fuel gauge can take minutes to read full after filling which are also indicative of a bad switch), I just cleaned the switch out and it made no difference. Have also seen that a bad GPS can cause problems with the engine changing maps and cause idle to sit at 1100 (I have also had occasional issues with the GPS not reading right), I've ordered the updated GPS so will whack that in when it arrives. I'm starting to run out of ideas, the guy from the bike shop lent his ECU to another shop to test on a bike, so he is going to get that back and try that.

But I'm all ears if anyone has a suggestion?

So you have an early Roadster 10-14 ?
I have had problems with the stepper motor on a 10 roaster. Tried a new one, no difference after setting with tuneecu, all values correct etc. Ended up putting stepper motor in airbox under seat (needs to be left plugged in) & set idle screw around 1000 rmp (needs to be set hot) Just got to use throttle a bit to warm up when cold. I have 3 other Rockets with no problems regarding the stepper but this one pissed me off enough to do what I did & it runs great
I'm assuming you've tried new primary & secondary tps's?
Also I did the gps upgrade on this particular bike before stepper problem.

 

[Jhortz]

So you have an early Roadster 10-14 ?
I have had problems with the stepper motor on a 10 roaster. Tried a new one, no difference after setting with tuneecu, all values correct etc. Ended up putting stepper motor in airbox under seat (needs to be left plugged in) & set idle screw around 1000 rmp (needs to be set hot) Just got to use throttle a bit to warm up when cold. I have 3 other Rockets with no problems regarding the stepper but this one pissed me off enough to do what I did & it runs great
I'm assuming you've tried new primary & secondary tps's?
Also I did the gps upgrade on this particular bike before stepper problem.

Thanks for the help, and the bike in question is a 2012 roadster. Removing the stepper motor is on the list that I'm working my way through, I might bump it up the list.

Both TPS where replaced when the full throttle body assembly was used from the other bike, so for now the TPS are assumed to be good.

Replacing the GPS is a bit of a desperation move, but there are some symptoms that match so I'm willing to give it a go. I have had a few other GPS issues from time to time too so I'm happy to upgrade it

 

[r3badboy]

Thanks for the help, and the bike in question is a 2012 roadster. Removing the stepper motor is on the list that I'm working my way through, I might bump it up the list.

Both TPS where replaced when the full throttle body assembly was used from the other bike, so for now the TPS are assumed to be good.

Replacing the GPS is a bit of a desperation move, but there are some symptoms that match so I'm willing to give it a go. I have had a few other GPS issues from time to time too so I'm happy to upgrade it

Yes good move, I did have problems with old gps, some which you described but mine was more running rich & fowling plugs.

 

[Gerald]

Thanks for the help, and the bike in question is a 2012 roadster. Removing the stepper motor is on the list that I'm working my way through, I might bump it up the list.

Both TPS where replaced when the full throttle body assembly was used from the other bike, so for now the TPS are assumed to be good.

Replacing the GPS is a bit of a desperation move, but there are some symptoms that match so I'm willing to give it a go. I have had a few other GPS issues from time to time too so I'm happy to upgrade it

On mine I just removed the link and left stepper on the bike raised the idle to 950-1000. No codes and no problems.