Clutch drag/clunking into gear

[Simon]

Well,

I've been out to the bike this morning for further examination…
If I slacken the clutch adjuster off until I have 2-3mm of play then start the bike in gear, it creeps forward like a good 'un. (have to hold it on the brake) added to that its impossible to change into neutral (or second) standing still with the clutch fully engaged and the engine running so I guess it's NOT fully disengaging.
If I take up all the slack (and keep winding it out) on the adjuster, I get to a point where I can shift back into neutral but I would guess when I ride the bike, I'll find it means the clutch is slipping.
It's looking increasingly likely I'm going to have to do this job (which I don't mind doing) pretty soon. Could someone who's done it let me have a comprehensive list of parts I will need (gaskets etc) if they don't mind please? I'd like to have everything ready to go. Many thanks for the advice
Just out of interest, is this a common rocket issue? I can't seem to find much mention of it on the forum????
Thanks again,

Simon

 

[Simon]

Is this the same issue?….
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZ-ZNDHsQFI

Simon

 

[Willtill]

Is this the same issue?….
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZ-ZNDHsQFI

Simon

That seems to be a completely botched actuator arm. You's may be going the way of that... but not exactly there yet.

 

[Willtill]

Duplicate post (slow, lethargic message board at the moment....)

 

[warp9.9]

Is this the same issue?….
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZ-ZNDHsQFI

Simon

I will have to watch it when I get home but if the arm is not set right it can add to the problems. I wish the **** governtment computers would work better on the video so I could actually here what he is saying.

One of the changes that should be made on your bike is the newer style lifter piece. As for the lifter shaft you really will not be able to tel until you open he up although I suspect yours is burnt. As for parts well you will need the clutch cover gasket, lifter piece and to be honest the price of the lifter shaft is not bad you could get one ahead of time just in case. You clutch fibers will have to be measured to see if they are in tolerance and as long as it has not been slipping for a long time there might not be a need to replace them. It really boils down to wether you want to wait for disassembly and inspection or buy parts you might not need. Of course since your on the other side of the pond you might want to check with the dealer to see if they already have them in stock so you won't have as much down time.
Unrelated why did you change the tins were they damaged or did you just not like the two tone paint design?

 

[warp9.9]

Is this the same issue?….
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZ-ZNDHsQFI

Simon

I will have to watch it when I get home but if the arm is not set right it can add to the problems. I wish the **** governtment computers would work better on the video so I could actually here what he is saying.

One of the changes that should be made on your bike is the newer style lifter piece. As for the lifter shaft you really will not be able to tel until you open he up although I suspect yours is burnt. As for parts well you will need the clutch cover gasket, lifter piece and to be honest the price of the lifter shaft is not bad you could get one ahead of time just in case. You clutch fibers will have to be measured to see if they are in tolerance and as long as it has not been slipping for a long time there might not be a need to replace them. It really boils down to wether you want to wait for disassembly and inspection or buy parts you might not need. Of course since your on the other side of the pond you might want to check with the dealer to see if they already have them in stock so you won't have as much down time.
Unrelated why did you change the tins were they damaged or did you just not like the two tone paint design?

 

[Simon]

Thanks again,
When I got the bike, the front mudguard was missing and the tank was badly dented. I WAS going to paint it black but as there are so many black ones out there I wanted something different so had it done in Ford Wimbledon White (the colour Shelby used to paint the stripes on Cobra's) I've had several Cobra's (replica's) over the years and as the Rocket is a two wheeled equivalent of the Cobra…it made sense. I must say I'm REALLY pleased with the way it looks.

Simon

 

[Simon]

OK....bought a new lifter shaft and front cover gasket so will dismantle the bike and attempt the replacement tomorrow.
Once the cover is off, I guess the removal replacement of the lifter shaft straightforward/self explanatory?????/
Thanks for all the advice and help so far guys, it's very much appreciated.
Simon

 

[warp9.9]

OK....bought a new lifter shaft and front cover gasket so will dismantle the bike and attempt the replacement tomorrow.
Once the cover is off, I guess the removal replacement of the lifter shaft straightforward/self explanatory?????/
Thanks for all the advice and help so far guys, it's very much appreciated.
Simon

When you go to tighten the pressure plate back down take it up like running the lugs up on a car tire. DO NOT run one spring bolt all the way in at a time take them up gradually so you do not warp any of the fibers of steels. Use the required Torque spec or you will twist one of the bolts off, which you will not like doing that.

 

[Simon]

Thanks, but I'm a bit confused now....the part I have bought is the lifter part that sits in the cover (the part that's worn in the previous pictures) I didn't buy any other parts that would necessitate removal of the clutch itself....have I got it wrong?
Simon