Clutch adjustment/issue

Would it be advisable, as I have to strip it down as far as the clutch basket, to pop that off and replace the detent spring as well? Or is it a case of "if it ain't broke don't fix it" with the detent spring?

How much use has it done.

I have done 60,000km so far still with the original.

I don't think yours will be suffering fatigue yet.

John Miller said:

How much use has it done.

I have done 60,000km so far still with the original.

I don't think yours will be suffering fatigue yet.

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At 2000 miles you are probably right. Just wondered if it was one of those things like Honda Firestorm CCTs that you just change because the OEM fitment is rubbish.

If all you have is a worn shift doodad and maybe scruffy plates - then I'd be content with that.

First you need to have a look and see what's shot!.

The detent spring is a fiddly little bugger to get on.

barbagris said:

If all you have is a worn shift doodad.

Click to expand...

I thought the 2013 Roadster had the doozickie fitted, doing away with the doodad

Timbo said:

I thought the 2013 Roadster had the doozickie fitted, doing away with the doodad

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Leave the detent spring alone. If your careful here is a short cut. Leave mud guard and front wheel on the bike. They are removed to make sure you don't scuff the mud guard with the radiator . I use a bath towel over the mud guard to protect it and pay attention. You can also just remove the mudguard leaving the wheel on. Also when you drain the radiator. By loosening the three water pump bolts a couple three or four turns. Then there is two screw driver slots you can pry the water pump cover open a little bit with drain pan under the cover. After the coolant has drained remove the three cover bolts two long one up top short. Leave the cover attached to the hose and the hose attached to the bottom of the radiator. This way everything will line right up when you go back together with her. Oh all this probably saved you a hour or so off Triumph 4 hour time for doing a clutch.

Good lifter shaft left burnt bad on right. See burnt edges they dissintagrate and then they won't lift the lifter piece opening the clutch. At first people adjust it and it works fine. But as more edge fails from over heating you have to adjust more and it wont open the clutch as much making it drag when your trying to put her in gear. Eventuall you adjust to much and snap goes the shaft. This burning can be from improper free play. It also can develop from reving the engine showing off !!!!! Remember the clutch is for two reasons transmitting power from the engine to the gear box. And momentarily disengaging/seperating the drive line from the engine for shift and sitting stopping.



Liftershaft breakage courtesy of Carpenter Racing.



Hope this helps, now back to the wifes ball joints on her jeep

Thanks @warp9.9 and all for the really helpful posts. Will have a go at it on Sunday and report back

2 hours is my best time no barley involved !!!

Ok, so it wasnt 2 hours but got her stripped down, nice and steady.

When I took the cover off the first things I checked were the lifter and the pushrod, both look tip top to me.

https://flic.kr/p/49223605001
https://flic.kr/p/49223122673
Then, took the clutch apart, removing all the steels and friction plates in order, stacking them so I knew which way round they were etc.

Starting from the back (furthest into clutch, I noticed a build up of back deposits on the friction plates and also on the steels, see below. These deposits were stuck to the plates.

https://flic.kr/p/49223828442
On the steels, they were more smudged across the plates but forgot to take pics.

So I am cleaning them and reassembling in order (coating with engine oil as I go) when I get to the 4th friction plate from the front and find this! the edges have all sort of broken up, it is the only one like it.

https://flic.kr/p/49223828847
Here is the weird thing. From this plate towards the back, the friction plates all had deposits on them, from this plate forward they were all clean with no deposits.

These are the bits that came off it, obviously the rest of them are stuck to the other plates in smaller bits. The flip side of the defective plates is perfect as seen below.

https://flic.kr/p/49223828932
Apart from this one friction plates, all others are perfect and cleaned up just fine.

Question, can you replace just one friction plate? A reminder the bike has done 2000 miles but is 6 years old.

I eagerly await your guidance

Looks like John Miller got it right in post #3. May I suggest replacing the the clutch fiber plates and dropping your engine pan to inspect/clean for bits down there.