Brake squeal observation

mully95 said:
That's the part I can't figure ... when the squeal started the bike had not been in the rain. I rode on some wet streets for about 10 minutes to get home from work.

We've narrowed it down to contaminants so now trying to figure out where it is coming from.

This is the soap I use: DEEP CRYSTAL

Might need to change to something different.

Not end of the world or anything because now I know how to fix it but interesting to see if others are having the issue. I don't know about you guys but the squeal happens right when I'm fixing to come to a complete stop. You know .... you're at a red light trying to look cool, people got their windows rolled down, your buddies are beside you on their bikes, just about to come to a stop because the red light has turned red..... SQUEAKKKKKKKKK! Your buddies turn at look at you and "WTF was that?" people roll their windows up.... :D

This kind of reminds of a little story that happened to me. I was in a group ride and kept hearing a strange noise. It was like the faster I went the noise would pick up in duration. As we was rolling down the road I would look down and see where the noise was coming from on my bike. Mashed the rear brakes a little bit... nope not that. Mashed the front brakes.... nope not that. Pulled clutch in... nope not that. The group came to a stop and the noise quit. Hmmm.... WTF! Took off same thing. Turns out it was my buddies bike in front of me. His bike is belt driven and the belt was to tight so it made that noise.

Later on in the ride I fell back some in the group. Looked up in front of me and another biker who got behind the noisy belt rider was looking down trying to figure out where that noise was coming from on his bike......:D
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I have aT Bird if you don't get the belt adjustment just right it actually sounds like baby birds chirping. The first time the dealer changed the tire I left and had to pull over searching for rodents. Mgr looked at me like I was crazy. After he heard it for himself he said he never heard such a noise.
 
mully95 said:
Hello fellow rocketeers!

Got a question..... the pads on my bike are EBC double H brake pads in the front and rear positions. Been running these since I started replacing them back years ago.

EBC has a bedding in procedure in which I can vouch that it made the brake pads work better. Read at the bottom for proper procedure. The procedure posted came straight off the EBC website so it is correct. I didn't know this on the first couple sets of brake changes.

Now the observation I have is that even though I have applied anti squeal compound to the back of the pads, and have completed the bed in procedure, I still get a squeal in the front brakes.

Take note however that after the procedure is completed the pads don't start squealing immediately but after 1000 miles or so. This happens when I'm coming to a stop at a red light just about the time I am coming to a complete stop. It will not go away UNTIL the bedding process is done again.
It finally hit me one day after trying to figure out how can I fix the squealing .... why not try the bedding process again and see if it will fix the squealing. After completing the procedure the squeal is gone and has not come back. The squeal was gone immediately after the procedure was completed.Strange.

Would contaminates getting on the pads or rotor cause this? Everything is mechanically sound. Has new brake fluid. Clean and lubed slide pins. 30k miles on bike.

I posted this for mainly curiosity reasons as well as if anyone is having brake squeal and just about to pull their hair out ...... now you know how to fix it.

Only thing I can figure is after getting the brake parts hot it burns the contaminates off. ??



Bedding in procedure

"In Street use situations … Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied. Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.

Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.

A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.

NEVER attempt to sand or scotchbrite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction,this will only make things worse by taking the pads “Off-Flat” and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the rotor they will be used on and by following our bedding recommendation."
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My original pads squealed but were worn so I replaced them with EBC. The squeal returned with the pad about 60-70 percent. I cleaned them w/brake cleaner and bedded them in, not exactly as EBC recommends. That cured it for about 2-3 thousand miles before it returned. Next I replaced the rotors and used oem pads. The squeal stayed away so long I just knew it was a fix. Then the squeal returned. I did exactly what you said not to do scrub pad and degreaser on the rotors, sand paper on flat surface then rub the pads back n forth, dry with compressed air, followed EBC bedding process. There was a dark coating on the rotors and pads surface so you are right about contaminates. I often ride in the rain and in heavy traffic (lots of swerving & braking) If it returns I'll try bedding then again. I could ignore a squeak. But it sounds like a school bus or train stopping. Someone mentioned cutting a groove in the pad. We used to chamfer the edges of pads after eliminating other causes. Seemed to work at the time.
 
40mmrrsmith said:
My original pads squealed but were worn so I replaced them with EBC. The squeal returned with the pad about 60-70 percent. I cleaned them w/brake cleaner and bedded them in, not exactly as EBC recommends. That cured it for about 2-3 thousand miles before it returned. Next I replaced the rotors and used oem pads. The squeal stayed away so long I just knew it was a fix. Then the squeal returned. I did exactly what you said not to do scrub pad and degreaser on the rotors, sand paper on flat surface then rub the pads back n forth, dry with compressed air, followed EBC bedding process. There was a dark coating on the rotors and pads surface so you are right about contaminates. I often ride in the rain and in heavy traffic (lots of swerving & braking) If it returns I'll try bedding then again. I could ignore a squeak. But it sounds like a school bus or train stopping. Someone mentioned cutting a groove in the pad. We used to chamfer the edges of pads after eliminating other causes. Seemed to work at the time.
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I have always scuffed the pads and rotors with 1000 grit paper . It removes the glaze but would take a lot of rubbing to alter the face of the pads . Older rotors can wear some strange profiles into pads so they are rarely perfectly flat . EBC would never condone this coz it creates very harmful dust
So mask up ! 30 years ago , this exact procedure was printed in the Haynes manual for my mk 1 ford Escort , to stop brake squeal but it didn't advise masking up and mentioned very little bout the asbestos they contained back then !
Brake cleaner is the answer to most ills , that stuff jus kills grease and crud and wasps dead , smells nice and keeps the dust down !
 
Nat67 said:
I have always scuffed the pads and rotors with 1000 grit paper . It removes the glaze but would take a lot of rubbing to alter the face of the pads . Older rotors can wear some strange profiles into pads so they are rarely perfectly flat . EBC would never condone this coz it creates very harmful dust
So mask up ! 30 years ago , this exact procedure was printed in the Haynes manual for my mk 1 ford Escort , to stop brake squeal but it didn't advise masking up and mentioned very little bout the asbestos they contained back then !
Brake cleaner is the answer to most ills , that stuff jus kills grease and crud and wasps dead , smells nice and keeps the dust down !
Click to expand...


Those rotors are so hard i use 120 grit on an air grinder flap wheel - doesn't do anything harsher than ruff em up a bit. 1000 grits WAAAAAY too fine (on the rotors) 400 for the pads ;)
 
EasTexRIII said:
D@mn, I was tryin to bait Art into a Lemon Pledge endorsement :mad:
Click to expand...

upload_2016-12-31_12-4-5.png


Patience Grasshopper. I was asleep earlier but having taken the "Pledge"* feel compelled to say it looks like a can of Lemon Pledge 'Stealth' with a stuck on label. If it works it proves it must be.

*We are a secret society headed by Art (like followers of the 'Phantom'), committed to eradicating dirt and grime wherever we find it. We are close by and ever vigilant, some think we are a merely a myth until they come across a gleaming object radiating a force-field repelling all contaminants known and unknown to mankind with just a faint whiff of lemon fragrance or the new 'Stealth' pleasant scent in the air. Believe and take the 'Pledge' now!
;):p:roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll:
 

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