I just got back from Wal-Mart with some "Platinum Burners" super-mini 55W halogens. And a frozen pizza, wife is out of town. The lights were $19.95. The pizza was $6.98. It's enormous.
 
be sure to eat the pizza before you start on the lights. you need all the brain food you can get. (not really)

when you pull the package out and look at the directions, they are fairly good given what you paid. If you mount the lights on the radiator shrouds, you should be in good shape.

First, remove the top and side shrouds. Also remove the lower shroud if you are mounting on the bottom. Also raise the tank and remove the plastic neck coverings.

Starting with the ground wires: I ran the ground wire extensions (see the diagram on the instructions) along the top of the radiator and put fork terminals the ends. The terminals will go under one of the black pan head bolts that hold the plastic neck coverings on. Of course this will go under the plastic to remain unseen. You have to make sure that the forks touch the bolt when installed or you won't get a good ground. The other ends drape down the sides of the radiator waiting to be plugged into the lights.

Now run the power wire extensions along the sides of the radiator and across the top to someplace under the ignition cover. Here you can plug them into the Y-connector. Tape and secure with a wire tie. The other end of the Y-connector can be run along side the other cables around the steering head to a point where you will mount the switch in the right side plastic neck cover.

Measure, mark, measure again, and then cut out a small rectangular hole in the plastic cover and mount the switch. If you cut the hole properly, the switch will snap securely in place. You do not need the large plastic switch cover.

Now run the fused red wire back to the battery. Connect to the positive terminal. The red wire will plug into the + side of the switch (opposite the white dot on top). The black ground wire will plug into the other end of the switch (under the white dot on top). The white wire leading to the Y-connector goes to the middle blade on the switch. At this point it is a good idea to go ahead and plug the lights into their appropriate sockets and test. If all is good, then proceed.

Start replacing the shrouds and mount the lights in your desired location. After installation, tie wrap the leads to tidy everything up.

Good luck with the install and don't hesitate to ask any questions.
 
Ditto the Wal-Mart specials. Last time I looked they were up to a whopping $16.95:D


I've got'em too.... love the 'Burners'

I also ran across this site for retro-reflective vinyl...
Streetglo Reflective Helmet flame decal and helmet flame decal kits in reflective helmet sticker graphics.
... I went with the 'speed stripes'... black that reflects white...

Decided to put some on my helmet so I'd look like a alien floating down the street.

I figured that even a drunk person would wonder about the alien sighting... :D
 
I am a strong proponent of hi-vis yellow gear. I wear full-faced helmet, armored jacket, and gloves - all in hi-vis yellow. I am convinced it has saved me numerous times. My riding buddies tell me I can be seen from outer space, LOL!

CW
 
be sure to eat the pizza before you start on the lights. you need all the brain food you can get. (not really)

when you pull the package out and look at the directions, they are fairly good given what you paid. If you mount the lights on the radiator shrouds, you should be in good shape.

First, remove the top and side shrouds....................

Good luck with the install and don't hesitate to ask any questions.
Question: I have been reading about switching out to a louder horn, like a Wolo Bad Boy and I guess when you do that, you need to add a relay to keep from frying the switch. Do you NOT need to put a relay on the driving lights because it's supplying its own wiring and switch? I was also reading up on Tune ECU. The more I read the dumber I get :confused:
 
Question: I have been reading about switching out to a louder horn, like a Wolo Bad Boy and I guess when you do that, you need to add a relay to keep from frying the switch. Do you NOT need to put a relay on the driving lights because it's supplying its own wiring and switch? I was also reading up on Tune ECU. The more I read the dumber I get :confused:

Many of us have added a Stebel Nautilus to our bikes. You can buy the Stebel with an install kit that includes a relay. Without a relay you will fry your horn switch.

Since the driving lights are connected directly to the battery and include their own fuse, you do not need a relay. The included switch is robust enough to handle the load.
 
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