10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)

[Tal]

I did it solo, but another pair of hands and eyes wouldn't be a bad idea.

...and you then have someone to blame if theres a cockup!.....lol....What a great post this is...learning so much.

 

[Journeyman]

You'll be able to see them on the right side with the tank off. Once you remove the coils and evap canister you can actually get to them.

 

[Italianguy069]

Sharing my experience here changing the air and fuel filter and inspecting the spark plugs.

Refer to the manual for the basics, but here are things that may help, along with some very surprising discoveries I made...

1) Removing the tank

There are three things to disconnect besides the bolt at the front of the tank and the rear.

This hose is under the front right of the tank- just pull it off. It's the smaller one that has some sharp bends in it.

The fuel line requires fuel line pliers

Push the clip back and squeeze carefully while pulling up on the connection. It's plastic- hoping for a third party metal replacement to come out. It's gonna break at some point down the road, for sure. Other Triumphs have this problem.

Start lifting the tank and in the middle underneath is an electrical connection. Lift enough to get to the connection and with your third hand push down on this little tab to release the connection between the two halves of the plug. If you haven't dropped the tank you'll be happy and looking at...

The left side is pretty bare and a good place to run accessory wires to lights, etc.

The right side is jam packed with "stuff." Take lots of photos so you know how to route things when putting the coils and evap canister back on.

To get to the air filter among other things you'll need to swing the right end of this hose out and to the left from under the breather box.

After struggling in tight spaces trying to release all those hose clamps (above) I got the cutting wheel out and made some hose pliers. Saves a ton of time and frustration. Also good on the fuel filter lines. Getting the air filter box off the frame was a bit fiddly. It was definitely time to replace the filter.

My plugs look lean and I'm running @Penner 's richer tune. If you haven't loaded that, you should!
I was very suprised that the plugs were just barely tighter than hand tight! That, and the spark plug wire boots were literally just resting on the plugs- not attached! WTF?

The hardest part of this whole project was successfully pushing those boots down until they clicked onto the plugs. No wonder they gave up on the assembly line! The frame is in the way and prevents you from getting good leverage. I used a number of different hacks to create a way to push. I'm riding tomorrow and feel that it has to run better with the proper installation.

Oh, and you're going to need a 14mm spark plug socket. I ordered this magnetic one with a swivel. I think the swivel came in handy when inserting or removing the socket with a short extension on. Tighten plugs to 12 Nm (NOT finger tight)!

Continued.........

Thanks, Journeyman! For the pics and info, they were perfect! Now I would feel much more confident doing it myself no doubt! You the man!

 

[stingray]

Hey @Journeyman28778 do you happen to have any other pictures of how that fuel line connection looks lifting up the tank. The plastic piece I see on the bottom of the tank hose but can't figure out where it connects on the bike. Just got mine out of the shop and they found a pinched vent line in addition to missing parts on the abs system. I also noticed the labor rate at the dealership is up to $146 per hour now. If I keep this thing past warranty I'll be doing it myself.

 

[Journeyman]

Hey @Journeyman28778 do you happen to have any other pictures of how that fuel line connection looks lifting up the tank. The plastic piece I see on the bottom of the tank hose but can't figure out where it connects on the bike. Just got mine out of the shop and they found a pinched vent line in addition to missing parts on the abs system. I also noticed the labor rate at the dealership is up to $146 per hour now. If I keep this thing past warranty I'll be doing it myself.

I don't think I have more photos, but I'll check when I get a chance. This probably won't help, but in case...

Get the tool to pinch the connectors. I couldn't do it with my fingers and it's hard to reach in there with the stuff in the way. Even with the special pliers be gentle. It's all plastic. If you are squeezing the buttons on each side it should lift off easily with just a slight upward pull.

Be sure to remove the fuse for the fuel pump and run the bike till it kills beforehand. You'll still have a little fuel come out, but a rag in there should contain it.

 

[stingray]

I don't think I have more photos, but I'll check when I get a chance. This probably won't help, but in case...

Get the tool to pinch the connectors. I couldn't do it with my fingers and it's hard to reach in there with the stuff in the way. Even with the special pliers be gentle. It's all plastic. If you are squeezing the buttons on each side it should lift off easily with just a slight upward pull.

Be sure to remove the fuse for the fuel pump and run the bike till it kills beforehand. You'll still have a little fuel come out, but a rag in there should contain it.

Thanks man, I guess that last pic is where the vent line that was crushed on mine. A whole year getting this thing fixed over incorrectly assembled components. This time they scratched up my fuel tank, gouged up the right hand side panel trim, and left the engine two full quarts of oil low. After the 90 second run/ 90 second wait, it wasn't even showing on the dipstick. It took a whole quart to show and another whole quart to top off. Not to mention both tire pressures were below 35 psi. I'll be doing my own service from now own. Thanks for nuthin'.

 

[qweesy777]

Nice post, yeah your right on those plastic fuel elbow connectors, I got metal ones for the Daytona 675

 

[Journeyman]

Nice post, yeah your right on those plastic fuel elbow connectors, I got metal ones for the Daytona 675

I'm pretty sure it was the Speed Triple I had that I found metal connectors. If you can find a line on those for the new Rockets be sure to share.

 

[Journeyman]

Thanks man, I guess that last pic is where the vent line that was crushed on mine. A whole year getting this thing fixed over incorrectly assembled components. This time they scratched up my fuel tank, gouged up the right hand side panel trim, and left the engine two full quarts of oil low. After the 90 second run/ 90 second wait, it wasn't even showing on the dipstick. It took a whole quart to show and another whole quart to top off. Not to mention both tire pressures were below 35 psi. I'll be doing my own service from now own. Thanks for nuthin'.

The vent line is actually on the right side. That's the male end of the fuel line leading to the throttle bodies you see in that last photo.

Yeah, so far, neither of my Rockets have ever seen a dealer (fingers crossed emoji here). All the electronic stuff on the 2.5s makes me nervous as to when my luck will run out.

 

[stingray]

The vent line is actually on the right side. That's the male end of the fuel line leading to the throttle bodies you see in that last photo.

Yeah, so far, neither of my Rockets have ever seen a dealer (fingers crossed emoji here). All the electronic stuff on the 2.5s makes me nervous as to when my luck will run out.

Sorry to confuse. Vent at front, supply at rear. OK, my dyslexia at it again looking at the bottom. Thanks for these threads. The detail helps a lot.