06 would not stop cranking

[Gregger]

more than likely the solenoid washer stuck against the contacts or just welded to the contacts.
hth

I totally agree with this. Remember, the heavy main positive and negative wires going to the starter have no fuse or circuit protection. When they are activated, it's like running a positive and negative wire from the battery directly to the starter. The power from the relay to the solenoid pull in winding keeps it going. Only the control side or the starter circuit including the relay, push button, starter solenoid pull in windings etc have fused protection. I agree with @Mongler07 and @TURBO200R4 stating that the solenoid washer probably stuck to the contacts or some other solenoid part stuck, causing current to flow directly to the starter from the battery regardless of the control side being powered. Pulling the fuses with a stuck solenoid would do nothing since current would continue to flow. Regarding pulling the 30 amp fuse causing the starter to slow down??? That's kind of a mystery. You would think it would have caused the starter to speed up since you basically shut off current flow to all other circuits allowing more voltage to the starter.

I'm curious, did you notice if the lights went off when you pushed the starter button, then come back on after releasing the button when the starter continued to spin uncontrollably??? If the lights actually did come on when you released the button, it kind of signals that the control circuit and relay were working properly reinforcing the stuck solenoid diagnosis.

As a side note, I can remember in the 70's in Northern Ontario the problems we had with GM vehicles in very cold weather whereby starter motors would continue cranking with no way to shut them off. I had a stick which I would hit the starter solenoid which usually stopped the starter. We determined that the solenoids were frosting up and sticking. Caused a lot of problems with GM owners.

 

[Mongler07]

I totally agree with this. Remember, the heavy main positive and negative wires going to the starter have no fuse or circuit protection. When they are activated, it's like running a positive and negative wire from the battery directly to the starter. The power from the relay to the solenoid pull in winding keeps it going. Only the control side or the starter circuit including the relay, push button, starter solenoid pull in windings etc have fused protection. I agree with @Mongler07 and @TURBO200R4 stating that the solenoid washer probably stuck to the contacts or some other solenoid part stuck, causing current to flow directly to the starter from the battery regardless of the control side being powered. Pulling the fuses with a stuck solenoid would do nothing since current would continue to flow. Regarding pulling the 30 amp fuse causing the starter to slow down??? That's kind of a mystery. You would think it would have caused the starter to speed up since you basically shut off current flow to all other circuits allowing more voltage to the starter.

I'm curious, did you notice if the lights went off when you pushed the starter button, then come back on after releasing the button when the starter continued to spin uncontrollably??? If the lights actually did come on when you released the button, it kind of signals that the control circuit and relay were working properly reinforcing the stuck solenoid diagnosis.

As a side note, I can remember in the 70's in Northern Ontario the problems we had with GM vehicles in very cold weather whereby starter motors would continue cranking with no way to shut them off. I had a stick which I would hit the starter solenoid which usually stopped the starter. We determined that the solenoids were frosting up and sticking. Caused a lot of problems with GM owners.

No clue on the lights. That was not my priority lol.
I'm just going to put a quick disconnect on the battery positive when I redo the negative wire and misc.
Remeber I have this odd no start multiple crank attempt issue I never solved.
My hunch is this is all someone related.
Right now km 2 fists deep into my e350 truck timing chain and follower job.
So I'll get to this after a few weeks pass when I'm done

This cold issue might be it too. I had been using her to run up and down the road between my garage unit and our apartment so not ideal run time and I came back down from lunch. So might have been the cold and the not letting it warm up after multiple operations of less than 2 minutes!

 

[Tripps]

I've ridden in 20 degree weather, I doubt that's the cause

 

[Mongler07]

I've ridden in 20 degree weather, I doubt that's the cause

I'm 100% with you but it did corss my mind as that was the 1st cold day we have had so far this year on the new starter.

 

[Gerald]

No clue on the lights. That was not my priority lol.
I'm just going to put a quick disconnect on the battery positive when I redo the negative wire and misc.
Remeber I have this odd no start multiple crank attempt issue I never solved.
My hunch is this is all someone related.
Right now km 2 fists deep into my e350 truck timing chain and follower job.
So I'll get to this after a few weeks pass when I'm done

This cold issue might be it too. I had been using her to run up and down the road between my garage unit and our apartment so not ideal run time and I came back down from lunch. So might have been the cold and the not letting it warm up after multiple operations of less than 2 minutes!

I believe I'd put master switch on ground side cable. Short run time is harder on the engine than anything else, think that's just a coincidence. Good luck with your truck timing chain, I assume it's a diesel.

 

[Gerald]

I believe I'd put master switch on ground side cable. Short run time is harder on the engine than anything else, think that's just a coincidence. Good luck with your truck timing chain, I assume it's a diesel.

Our bikes, if you remove the light fuse engine won't crank, won't give the signal to the relay.

 

[Mongler07]

I believe I'd put master switch on ground side cable. Short run time is harder on the engine than anything else, think that's just a coincidence. Good luck with your truck timing chain, I assume it's a diesel.

Nope. Old school 2v triton. Atm covers are back on and things are going back togeather. Found a lot of issues.

 

[cootertwo]

Well, first off, the starter will dry probably a minumum off 100/150 amps, at least. So fusing that part of the circuit is NOT done. Fusing the "relay" circuit is done. Without reading backwards, I'm guessing the starter relay stuck/welded "closed", and in that case, it would crank until the battery, or starter gave up. Both are unfortunately very used after that episode.

 

[TURBO200R4]

Well, first off, the starter will dry probably a minumum off 100/150 amps, at least. So fusing that part of the circuit is NOT done. Fusing the "relay" circuit is done. Without reading backwards, I'm guessing the starter relay stuck/welded "closed", and in that case, it would crank until the battery, or starter gave up. Both are unfortunately very used after that episode.

I guess when it comes down to it the problem could be anywhere from a stuck starter button to stuck relay to a stuck starter solenoid/washer contacts

 

[Mongler07]

Well, first off, the starter will dry probably a minumum off 100/150 amps, at least. So fusing that part of the circuit is NOT done. Fusing the "relay" circuit is done. Without reading backwards, I'm guessing the starter relay stuck/welded "closed", and in that case, it would crank until the battery, or starter gave up. Both are unfortunately very used after that episode.

116 amps to be exact. 12v at 1.4kw...
Imo those wires are way too small for that kinda amps lol
Battery is probably fine as it's basically new and it only cranked for about 60 to 90 seconds. Its also a fully rebuilt new starter.
If the switch was sruck the fuse would have stopped it. The relay being sruck was my 2nd thought and I wish the relays were not behind a bolted down cover unlike 100% of all my other bikes that the cover pops off.