Me too! Granted my rims are not bad. They aren't pitted, but have some light oxidation on them. I'm not sure how this would work on something that is heavily oxidized and/or pitted.

Just follow the directions it comes with and it will work best, use the wool, shop rags and let it soak in for at least 2 minutes before scrubbing, it's pretty amazing, but to go from Black to almost chrome shine, not easy, 8 hour total job for taking the wheels off to back on the bike, not all in one day, and if you strip out the disk rotor bolt's, the 08's were discontinued, but they are on ebay, titanium, different colors too. I found that out on here from someone don't remember who, but I had already bought used replacement's with the rotors, so if you need one I have about 15😁🤔😏🤙👍 What happened I stripped the hex head and forced ( hammered) in a sae next size up on it, got it out about a 1/4" and cut the edge flat and fit a 12mm wrench on it and got it out, that was a waste of about 2 hours, so if you don't do that it will take you about 6hours total, 😁🤔😏🤙👍
 
I did my 08 really bad when I started, but I also used 1000 and 3000 grit wet/dry, wet, still took all day about 8 hrs total front and back, off of the bike, with gords Polish, and cone and disk buffing Wheels on a drill, I was happy, but I see they need a touch-up after the winter, I'll post what I used, and before and after shots. Gords Aluminum Wheel Polish Chrome, Cleaner, Polish & Sealer

Car Buffers and Polishers Kit for Drill, 14Pcs Drill Polishing Wheel Foam Ball Buffing Pads Sponge Ball for Automotive Car Wheels Hub Care, Metal, Plastic, Ceramic and Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFN1SVN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_0Y9E72K7MC1ETKC1JHWE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And I used gumout carb cleaner and 0000 steel wool to get the old glue off. I'll have to get the white diamond, but mother's did nothing, even with the buffing pads. I think this time I'll try sealing them with ceramic seal. GL, oh I'll try the Pat Benatar, hopefully that's all it takes 😁🤔👍😏
Nice Job! I wish I had that much ambition. I did shine my rear when I took it off to get a new tire, but it was in really good shape to start with. That organic brake pad dust sure does a number on them every ride, though, a pain to wipe off.
 
Okay, I bought the White diamond polish and wow, I'm impressed. In less than 5 minutes I had half the right side of the front rim shinning. And it was shinning more than it ever did with Mothers or the Blue metal polish. I think I'm a convert! We'll see how long it lasts. But the speed of the shine is what gets me. I can spend a half hour with mothers and not get that shine and still have residue on the metal.
AWESOME stuff...right?
 
My Classic's wheels are clear coated but they look like the surface of the moon. What's the best way to strip the old lacquer and polish the rims?
I guess I would try a heat gun with 0000 steel wool, with the tires removed from the rims and bearing's and the disk's, make's it a lot easier to clean,, the bolt's are discontinued so be careful, they do have replacement's aftermarket Titanium in pretty color's and silver, but if you put 1 titanium bolt on replace them all, Titanium is a lot lighter than Chromium steel, just a bad idea for vibration purposes and balance. (I guess I would probably try a spot away from the tire first, heat it just enough to loosen it a little, don't try to burn it off, and use lacquer thinner and the steel wool just for a quick test to see if it will work?????, and keep the thinner off the tire, Oh and yes the heat gun off when applying the thinner or poof if you know what I mean, that stuff is pretty flammable nor do you want to heat the tire too much, it tends to loose shape that way and get really soft and gooey, KID'S don't try this at home, but I tend to live dangerously)
No seriously I would take everything off the rim and if all that failed go to the trusty paint stripping jelly at home depot, with the wool. After joking around all that time I don't see why not to just go right to the paint stripper, that sounds quick and easy, they say clean it with ammonia after I thing, I don't know I never read the directions. but I would also wet them really good and try the keep them wet for a few 5 to 15 minutes with backing soda mixed as much as will dissolve in warm water to neutralize the acid, maybe lay wet towels on them, then rinse it real good, not sure if it is acid in it but I'll bet the pH is very low, even if it said don't use on aluminum, I would probably try a little, on the rim that is, not ingest it LOL, and see what it does, you might want to have a hose ready, to put out the fire. and maybe have the wife and kid's go for ice cream or something, just in case living dangerously takes a turn south. Maybe have the wife call before coming back to see if it's safe!!!!! Even if it is you can say like no the house is on fire or something like that to be able to finish that beer in peace.
GL and if anyone knows not to use paint stripper on aluminum please step in for a word of warning anyway. Oh and definitely don't get near anything else, far away from the Rocket
If you live in close proximity of nosey Neighbours, you might have to contend with them too. Or a Gated community like the Zoo
 
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My Classic's wheels are clear coated but they look like the surface of the moon. What's the best way to strip the old lacquer and polish the rims?
Did you have the wheels clear coated yourself because I thought Triumph left them in a natural aluminum finish on those areas where they machined the black powder coating off.
 
Actually I can't be sure - I assumed that they were clear coated and the lacquer had 'crazed' but on closer inspection it could be surface corrosion.
 

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