weird brake pad issue

Friday I rode the beast to work and heard a weird noise coming from the back end so I hit the rear brake, thought it might be sticking and the noise stopped. Forgot about it. Saturday I went to fill up with gas, gonna take the wife for a ride in the country and heard it again. Well what the &^%$ the rear brake pads are worn out again. This is my second set in 25,000 miles and I have never replaced the front ones. Weird thing is, that on the way back from the gas station I used the front brakes only and they kinda didn't feel right. Kinda pulsed if you know what I mean or maybe you don't know what I mean. But anyway I pulled the rear pads and they are to the nub, but the front ones have maybe 1/8 of an inch left and the wear indicators are still there. By the way, these pads are easy to change. Is it possible to wear out a set of pads but still have some pad left on them? I know this sounds silly, but that why I am asking the experts.
Anyway I went to Flipmeisters and ordered a complete front and rear set just in case. I should get them maybe Thursday. I tell you what, Flip saved me $70.00 compared to what the other sites I checked wanted for pads. Go Flip.
If you have any input here, let me know. Thanks
Dave
06 Classic R&W

Not sure what you mean about wearing out a set with pad still left, but if you are referring to the wear indicator, they aren't exact. The wear indicators on all pads are there for use as a guide and are not exact.
If you are referring to uneven wear, like one side is gone with pad still left on the other ... that is usually caused by sticking or corroded slide pins. Sometimes they will wear uneven for no apparent reason, just happens.
If you are talking about the same pad wearing uneven ... that is usually caused by misalignment the last time they were installed or debris on the mating surfaces.

If you use the rear brakes like I do, mine only last about 12k miles, so two in 25 ain't bad.

The fronts pulsing, well that very well could be warped rotors. If they are badly warped, replacement is the only way to get rid of the problem. But you might try taking the fronts apart, cleaning and wire-brushing the pins and surfaces. Lightly grease the pins before reinstalling them so they slide easily but not so much that the grease could get on the pads or rotor. Also clean and lube the caliper sliders the same way so that they move back and forth freely. If the calipers are frozen in place, even a light warp in the rotor will be magnified. No rotors are absolutely perfect, that's why the calipers need to slide easily.

I'm at 19,000 miles and still on the original pads. I mainly use the fronts, only use the rears for slow speed maneuvering. I agree that the pulsing may indicate a problem with the rotors.

Hi Trirocketman

Most heavier bikes like cruisers tend to get their rear brakes used more than is usual due to the added weight.
The pulsing you are experiencing is due to lack of use.
I doubt that the discs are warped, it takes a great amount of heat to warp them.
But under use can create a glazing effect on the pad and disc, go out and use the front brakes hard for a few miles to clean up the surfaces.


Loftyjohn

That makes 100% sence.
Two sets in 25,000 miles says you use your back, way more than your front.
Thats ok though, thats the way most of us grew up,
besides they're cheap and easy to replace.
Ride it like you want to, stop it like you want to,
just try to use your front 'a little" more, and see if it helps.
JM2CW,
skip

I've done 12000 miles and I just changed the rears. Thats set number three on now. If you are getting pulsing its usually a warped disc.

Pads can glaze, causing them to not grip well. A few seconds with some sandpaper on the pad surface will fix this.

I lightly sand new pads, then break them in gently - allowing them to bed in.

Many "warped" discs are simply not centering well. Clean the rivits well with brake cleaner and a brush - both sides. Remove all grit and rust/corrosion. Then add a touch of graphite for lubrication.

I'm into cheap EBC pads....

One thing all of you will notice is that the front discs on the R3 are full floating, that is, the disc swept area is isolated from the spider by double sided rivets that are swaged to the spider but still allow the disc to free float just a bit. Like PT says, make sure the disc floats on the spider (like the factory intended it to do). Age and dirt can lock the disc on the rivets and cause pulsation.

If you grab the disc itself in your hands (with the bike stationary) and wiggle it back and forth, it shold move side to side and rotationally, a little bit in both the rotational axis and the side axis. If it don't, it's become locked on the rivets and it shouldn't be. I'd suggest removing the caliper (so you don't contaminate the pads) and soaking the rivets with PB Blaster or a good penetrant and agter they free up, a little WD 40 should keep them free.

That should eliminate the pulsing feel as the disc will assume concentricity as the pads grip it.

And if your front rotors can be moved using your thumb and forefinger (moves too easily) then you might want to check behind the rivits that hold the rotor to the spyder, as my 07 is being fitted today with new front rotors. Seems the tensioning springs (clips actually) that are supposed to be in-between the rivit and the rotor were never installed at the factory. My Triumph mechanic found it looking at the rotor (visual inspection).

Symptoms were a popping noise when moving the bike around at low speed, and when washing the bike I noticed the rotors moved too easily, compaired to my SprintST for example.

Thanks to my mechanic and Triumph, all covered by warrenty (YES)

oldsprint03

Just for general knowledge when it comes time to replace rotors, there are several aftermarket options for front rotors on the R3 that are available today. Most are a couple of pounds lighter, and made with high carbon Stainless, as well.

I just ordered a set of wave-cut rotors from Galfer - part number DF655+DF655 for a set of two.