Update...broke down yet again

Definitely a bat/connection prob.
Worth a tow bill i will pay shipping if you dont want it or i will help you diagnose it.
Start with trying to jump start it.
Soon as I hit the starter, it clicks, farts, buzzes and goes blank. Battery tested yesterday in 3 stages and all good. Seems it won't start when it's hot because it started just fine 30 minutes before I stopped
 
Frustrating but then all problems are...Have you lifted the handlebars for any reason?...maybe fitted risers or something?...There is a plug and play fitting for the dash that if its not completely 'clicked' into its fitting it will give you problems. If you can undo..carefully!..the dash and track the cables you will find it...make sure its snapped into the fitting snug..just a thought...
 
Frustrating but then all problems are...Have you lifted the handlebars for any reason?...maybe fitted risers or something?...There is a plug and play fitting for the dash that if its not completely 'clicked' into its fitting it will give you problems. If you can undo..carefully!..the dash and track the cables you will find it...make sure its snapped into the fitting snug..just a thought...
I loosened the bars and swivelled it slightly more up then retightened.
I did that 18 months ago.
Good thinking though. Something to think about
 
Soon as I hit the starter, it clicks, farts, buzzes and goes blank. Battery tested yesterday in 3 stages and all good. Seems it won't start when it's hot because it started just fine 30 minutes before I stopped
Still sounds like a bad connection. It seem the starter circuit allows current to flow under light load but the circuit opens when heavy draw takes place. Typically a loose connection causes this. I've also seen defective batteries act this way. When you had the battery tested, did they perform a load test on it with a carbon pile. Load the battery up with what your starter typically draws and see what the voltage drops to (shouldn't drop below 9.6 volts) or if the battery shorts out internally causing a zero voltage for a moment indicating an internal short in the battery.
 
The way Triumph stacks the electrical connections at the battery causes some corrosion to form between them as they loosen. I had the problem. Take a wire brush and clean both sides of each spade and coat with di-electric grease before reassembling. When you have them tight, go another half turn. Then another half turn if they loosen again. I thought the bolt would break the last time I tightened them. But once I had my battery terminals dogpoop tight I quit having all sorts of problems.
 
Still sounds like a bad connection. It seem the starter circuit allows current to flow under light load but the circuit opens when heavy draw takes place. Typically a loose connection causes this. I've also seen defective batteries act this way. When you had the battery tested, did they perform a load test on it with a carbon pile. Load the battery up with what your starter typically draws and see what the voltage drops to (shouldn't drop below 9.6 volts) or if the battery shorts out internally causing a zero voltage for a moment indicating an internal short in the battery.
When it was tested yesterday it was 12.4 at rest, 10.2 cranking and 14. 2 while running. They were adamant the battery was fine. it started 8 more times during the day with not 1 hint of an issue until this morning when i stopped for fuel. It gives me zero warning anything is wrong
 
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