Fork seal kit I got from All Balz didn't fit (naturally). So took the forks to the dealer and they tried their set and that didn't do any better. Long story short I have the dealer ordering another set of seals and dust covers for the model year and last 6 digits of the VIN. Apparently Triumph saw fit to change forks 4 times in 1998. How thoughtful......
 
Just got a notice from Bike Bandit, parts I ordered over a month ago are finally on their way. Of course I probably won't worry about installing any of them until this winter.....

The bike is ready after the forks are back for buttoning up and a test ride. Nice they are on top of their orders......

Speaking of forks I looked at the catalog a little closer and it turns out there were 4 iterations of forks, however only two different seals. One was 43X54X11 and the other 43X55X9.5. Naturally the one I need is the first, what I got from All Balz and the dealer's in stock was the second.
 
Saturday I picked up the forks from Eurosport with the new seals and dust covers installed. Sunday Tom came over and we commenced the reconstruction of the front end. We put new fork oil in, old progressive springs, washers and spacers and buttoned up the legs. I had marked the insertion depth of the forks in the triple tree with a Sharpie marker and used the line I drew to set the depth of the left leg. The mark on the right leg had been erased by Eurosport so I got my electronic calipers and measured the left leg and we set the right leg using the calipers. As we set about putting the spacers and clip-ons on we determined we had not accounted for the routing of cables and lines from the clip-ons and we had to lower the forks in the triple tree to reroute the cables. Typical. We just removed the brake calipers and loosened the clamps to slide the tubes low enough to squeeze the cables and wires around the tubes, then slid the forks back up until the left leg mark was flush and retightened the clamps, viola cables properly routed. We had the front end complete and moved on to reinstalling the intake snorkels, which required some tie-wraps to clamp them to the frame. Then it was time to put the fuel tank on so we unhooked my aux tank and set the fuel tank in place. Connected the two fuel lines, vacuum line and plugged in the fuel gauge lead when we noticed gas dripping from behind the fuel selector knob. Not cool. I removed the selector knob and sure enough there was gas dripping out. I backed out the two lock screws that are the selctor travel stops and pulled the knob hub out. The seal at the back of the fuel tap (petcock) had a gash in it. No big deal, get a rebuild kit ordered up that included that seal. Problem. No rebuild kits available in the US. So tomorrow (because most motorcycle shops are closed Mondays) I'll check with Eurosport and see about getting a complete new fuel tap. Until then the project is on hold........again......
 
Saturday I picked up the forks from Eurosport with the new seals and dust covers installed. Sunday Tom came over and we commenced the reconstruction of the front end. We put new fork oil in, old progressive springs, washers and spacers and buttoned up the legs. I had marked the insertion depth of the forks in the triple tree with a Sharpie marker and used the line I drew to set the depth of the left leg. The mark on the right leg had been erased by Eurosport so I got my electronic calipers and measured the left leg and we set the right leg using the calipers. As we set about putting the spacers and clip-ons on we determined we had not accounted for the routing of cables and lines from the clip-ons and we had to lower the forks in the triple tree to reroute the cables. Typical. We just removed the brake calipers and loosened the clamps to slide the tubes low enough to squeeze the cables and wires around the tubes, then slid the forks back up until the left leg mark was flush and retightened the clamps, viola cables properly routed. We had the front end complete and moved on to reinstalling the intake snorkels, which required some tie-wraps to clamp them to the frame. Then it was time to put the fuel tank on so we unhooked my aux tank and set the fuel tank in place. Connected the two fuel lines, vacuum line and plugged in the fuel gauge lead when we noticed gas dripping from behind the fuel selector knob. Not cool. I removed the selector knob and sure enough there was gas dripping out. I backed out the two lock screws that are the selctor travel stops and pulled the knob hub out. The seal at the back of the fuel tap (petcock) had a gash in it. No big deal, get a rebuild kit ordered up that included that seal. Problem. No rebuild kits available in the US. So tomorrow (because most motorcycle shops are closed Mondays) I'll check with Eurosport and see about getting a complete new fuel tap. Until then the project is on hold........again......
Man that sucks, just making progress and it gets stalled by probably a $2 part.
I always get pissed when I strip something and an unrelated part needs replacing, holding up re-assembly.
I did the doohickey on my KLR on the weekend. Was worried that I'd find something inside that also needed attention, luckily not!
 
Got hold of Eurosport to order the petcock and they said it was showing "yellow" in inventory, meaning 'low stock.' We'll see if it shows up or not (fingers crossed). Once that's arrived (and the indicator lens and screw that shipped yesterday) that should complete the initial repairs. I have my orders from Bike Bandit (3 weeks after I needed them) so Tom and I will put those on this winter when riding season is done (sad 37 days for sure). That will get the bike back up to spec with new rubber goods and should be a reliable piece of transportation.
 
Sunday Tom and I put the new fuel tap on and proceeded to finish the reassembly. I had Tom mount the fuel lines on the back side while I got the right side fuel line on. Tom suggested we give it a test fire after hooking it up and we had a hard time getting it started. Once it fired it revved to 4000 RPM and sat there with no choke. Fuel began pouring out the bottom of the bike. Not too cool really. So feeling around the new fuel tap I found the left side fuel line missing (Tom was supposed to put that on) and fuel dripping out. I then looked at what he had done and found the left fuel line and vacuum line both hooked to the gas tank vent and overflow outlets respectively. Houston, we have a problem. Tom said he hooked it up like Pat had it last week and that clued me in on why we were having start issues. The high idle was again back so we had to address that, again. Off came the fuel tank.

We ended up pulling the coils back off to get our fat fingers into the space to get the adjusting barrel threaded in. We also threaded the adjuster barrel on the throttle grip in as far as it would go. That got the idle down to 1000 RPM, close to where it needed to be. I adjusted the idle up to 1100 with the adjuster knob and called it good. We then put the tank back on, this time I mounted both fuel lines and had Tom plug the vacuum line from the #4 cylinder into the fuel tap diaphragm nipple. That resolved our fuel line fiasco. We then started mounting the skins back on. Lower fairings, left facia, side panels etc. We had to sort the hardware since we had just put everything into one bin so it was a bit of a jigsaw puzzle of connectors. Got all back together and then checked air pressure in the tires, both really low (expected) and after that we backed the bike off the lift and rolled it out to the driveway. When we attempted to start the bike, no soap. Well crap. The bike turned over somewhat slow, so we put the charger on it and tried again. And again no soap. Rat spit. Tom opined it needed a new battery because it was turning over kind of slow. I recalled an XS1100 I owned years ago having the same symptoms. All the charger was doing was spinning the motor and not enough voltage to fire the engine.

To check the battery we rolled the bike back up on the lift and I checked the battery terminals. Both finger tight. I applied a 10mm box end and got them tight and then put the charger clips back on and set the charger for a 10 amp charge to deep cycle the battery. This morning I went out and checked the charger, the needle was at half an amp. I turned on the ignition switch and the lights came on really bright. I pulled in the clutch lever, hit the starter button and the biked roared to life and sat purring at 1100 RPM. DANG! That's cool. This afternoon when my brother Pat gets back from Corpus Christie I'll take it for a test ride. Hopefully the clutch isn't locked up, so we'll see.
 
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OK then, here's how it went today. To verify the battery was holding a charge I started the bike on the lift and it fired instantly. Cool. I shut it off and we rolled the bike out of the garage. Before donning helmet etc I decided to start the bike and let it warm a bit. The bike would not start. Double Rat Spit!! Without hesitation I got the charger hooked up and hit with a 50 amp start. No soap. OK, new battery. Pat and I went to Batteries Plus and I got an AGM heavy hitter. After installation I tried a start and no soap. So Pat and I rolled it back up on the lift and before throwing tools at it and pulling my hair out I tried it once more and it fired instantly. WTF!!??!! With the bike running on the lift I backed it down and rolled it out to the drive. I put the kickstand down and the engine died instantly. Eureka!! The neutral light indicator wasn't lit (which I attributed to a bad bulb). Turns out the neutral switch isn't working and the interlock between the kickstand and ignition system is. Well that's a pisser. So with the kickstand up the bike will start. Down, no show. Easy workaround for now.

So I was able to ride the bike around the block and noticed a few bad things. One the throttle hangs up causing 0 engine braking and if turning right will actually accelerate. Not the best scenario for a liesurely ride, The engine feels pretty strong and it does accelerate when asked. I went thru the first 3 gears and the tranny is a little clunky but that's what I remember about this bike, tranny is positive and clunky. Clutch pull was reasonable and the brakes worked great. The mirrors will need replacement as they are wandering around the compass when bumps are encountered. The mirrors are made to fold and it feels like the base plates are worn out, almost no resistance. I might get away with putting a small bolt thru the bracket center and tighen the arm against the base plate. I'll look into it.

So there we have it, it runs, imperfectly, rides somewhat smoothly, brakes adequately and it's only cost a bass boat load of cash, so far....

More to come......
 
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