atomsplitter

Living Legend
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
2,773
Location
Keller, TX
Ride
17 T-120 Black, 20 Bobber Black, 98 Trophy 1200
Well being a sucker for project bikes really hits you in the wallet. I started looking today at what I wheeled up on my Handy Lift last Thursday. The guy I bought it from has never ridden it, as he bought it from someone in New Jersey and had the bike shipped to him. It was a non-running entity when it arrived. Being the judicious individual that he is, he stored it carefully under a tree beside his garage. When I picked the bike up off the side stand water started running out of various components. Cool. I'm guessing he didn't bother to put it in his garage until well after the hail storm that went thru here a few weeks ago. The left mirror was smashed, the front fender has a chunk missing, and the gas tank looks like some toddler with a ball peen hammer was playing a tune on it. I popped the gas tank open and was greeted with the eye-watering aroma of rotten gasoline. Sweet. I then noticed the left front and rear turn indicator lenses are scotch taped on (hopefully someone sprung for the good 3M stuff). The rider seat benefitted from the daily exposure to Texas weather by dry rotting and cracking down the middle exposing the foam interior to warm sunny days and winter's gentle caress. On the plus side the bike is complete and included a tail trunk. The tires are in decent shape. The chain drive looks like it was made from rust. I decided to see if the engine would crank on the battery and was rewarded with some carpel tunnel inflamation when I pulled the clutch lever in. The clutch is hydraulic actuated so I'm thinking the hydraulic fluid is now a 50-50 mix of phospate esters and water. The engine did spin over when I mashed the starter button so that's good. So as to keep from being surprised later I put my battery charger on the battery to get it fully charged. In the trunk was all the original stuff you get from a dealer, and it included a Haynes (hard cover) manual for Triumph Triples and Fours. This is the quintessential shop manual for those that desperately need insufficient information and rabbit holes to run down.

After a brief whiff from the tank I got on line to Bike Bandit and ordered a few odds and ends, bits and bobs to replace anything made from elastic material between the gas tank and the carburetors. Turns out there's only about 40 or 50 pieces of rubber pipe needed at a going rate of $20 an inch. I also ordered some new carb diaphrams as a precaution to avoid my inevitable frustration of why the carbs won't sync. Having been through this exercise a time or two after a carb set rebuild on anything approaching antique-hood I've learned it's best to just wholesale change out all the rubber stuff. The bummer is you can't get any of this stuff wholesale, they usually want what's in your retirement nest egg, plus shipping and handling. Last Thursday I got on line and ordered a set of coils for the bike from Fleecebay. The options to getting new coils were few and somewhere between slim and none, so I opted for slim. The choices I had were: get coils from Bike Bandit at $155.71 each (they could have named themselves Bike Pirates) or $41.43 each shipped from the UK for $25.00. So it takes a while to clear customs, I'm patient. So now I'm waiting on some parts to continue the process of turning my wallet into a no-fly zone. I figure once I have the carbs rebuilt, the gas tank flushed, the coils replaced and any other little jobs (like replacing the front fender, drive chain, brake and clutch fluid, oil, filter, air filter, oil, turn indicators, etc.), it will be time to give it a crank and see if it starts.

Boy am I glad I'm made of money because it feels like this is going to take a river of cash and a ton of patience........
 
Good start to buy your bits in bulk from one or two suppliers and save a fortune on individual postage.
MANY little items shipped together cost the same as one to post o'seas from the UK.
You may find a place like this can do it all for a reasonable price.

Eg.




K&N is all well and good but me, I'd go cheap, 1 quid each! ;) :cool:


and lots more!
 
Actually I ordered a carb rebuild kit from 6 Sigma. They offer the best carb kits for any carbureted bike on planet Earth. I got to know them when I was working on my Yamaha XS 1100 SF project. The bike pulled like a freight train once I got the needles set correctly. I'm expecting a bump in power accross the rev range with their kit for the Trophy 1200.

You can find them at: 6 Sigma Jet Kit
 
Please post some pictures of this mess.
In response to your request I submit the following:

Left rear turn indicator:
1626017675719.jpeg


Gas tank with hail peening:

1626017723484.jpeg


Rusty rear disk:

1626017794033.jpeg


Front fender with piece missing and cracked:
1626018923412.jpeg

Chain made of rust:
1626017860168.jpeg


Fuel tank mung

1626017914378.jpeg


Left mirror:
1626017956441.jpeg


Front turn indicator:
1626017992034.jpeg


Son-in-law Tom helping with initial teardown:
1626018048299.jpeg

Trophy carb set ready for a rebuild:
1626018108726.jpeg


I pulled the float bowl off one of the carbs and took out the main jet. There was no visible light through the jet. If the mains are clogged, then I would surmise the intermediate and pilot jets are clogged as well. I tested the diaphrams and they seem OK but I'll probably replace just to be safe. I'll also need new intake boots and squish bands since the old ones were toast. The squish bands were not excessively tight and they self-destructed when pressure was applied to the screw head.

So now it's wait for parts to arrive to put this back together. Get the seat reupholstered, have the gas tank dents removed, put a new front fender on, replace all the fluids including coolant. Shouldn't take more than a few weeks.........
 
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Already repaced the mirror. Next will be the left side turn indicators. Today Tom is coming over to help get the carbs back in so we can test fire the bike. The new coils arrived and I have a spare igniter if we can't get spark. I'll post up the progress after the heat drives us out of the garage.
 
Tom and I again tackled a project today. The Trophy's carbs have developed a bad habit of overflowing, like the floats are stuck, or the needle valves missing. The bike runs fine but this is annoying since it reduces my fuel economy to feet per tank full. So a few months ago I had ordered all new fuel pipes and intake manifolds, throttle cable, hose clamps etc. etc. so here was our opportunity to install new rubber. Getting the old fuel pipes off was a simple matter of cutting the hoses off the T's since they were bonded from age. I pulled the float bowls off and sprayed carb cleaner all over the float assemblies after removing them. Verified none were stuck in a fixed position and then we put it all back together to the point we could use my aux tank and test the result. The result was fuel flowing out of the right side overflow hose but no longer coming out of the left side. Progress. Now I have 4 new float assemblies on order from Moto lab so we'll be pulling it all apart (again) to install the new floats, which (fingers crossed) should cure the problem. Once this is good and off my lift my Bobber is going up on the lift for fork internals replacement (finally). Weather has been good enough to get some mileage in so been looking forward to getting these projects done.
 
Tom came over today to help with the carb float issue on the Trophy 1200. We had left the body work off for ease of access and it only took a few minutes to get the carbs back out. The new floats arrived from Moto Lab yesterday so we had the parts to install. After draining the float bowls I replaced each float assembly making sure to seat the O-rings on the intake pipe. Buttoned it all back up and set about putting the carbs back on and mounting the airbox before giving it a test fire. Once we had it ready, hooked up to the auxiliary tank I then opened the outlet valve on the fuel tank. Watched the fuel flow for a minute or two and then flow stopped. We checked the overflow tubes and they were dry. OK better. Turned on the ignition and hit the starter. A few sputters later it came to life with a sputtery idle. Revved it and it roared. Good enough. We then proceeded to put all the body work back on after mounting the fuel tank and got it all back together. Backed it off the lift and rolled it out onto the driveway. Started it up and noted it wouldn't run without the choke on full. I turned the fuel selector to RES and kept the bike running with the choke and throttle and soon the RPMs picked up and it held 4000 RPM and then 5000 RPM and returned to idle with a only few hiccups. I let it idle awhile surmising the float bowls weren't totally full yet. After a few minutes idling everything smoothed out and I took it around the block to verify throttle response was normal. Pulled like a freight train when I gave it the beans yanking my arms hard. This was an improvement, and it didn't piss fuel all over everything as well. I'm calling it, PROBLEM SOLVED.
 
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