I run mine at the maximum recommended pressure listed in the shop manual and check 'em before each trip. If you run over the maximum pressure, as the tire attains operating temperature over the course of a few miles, the internal pressure climbs up a fair amount, probably 6-7 pounds over the maximum cold pressure which is why tires should always be checked 'cold', not after being used. The manufacturer arrives at the inflation figures through sound engineering principles based on speed, weight of the vehicle, tire construction and rolling resistance. With tires, especially on a bike where your life may be depending on that tire under your butt, I don't fiddle.
It's a good idea to do a visual check of your tires before each trip, checking the pressure, inspecting the tire for cuts, tread separation, sidewall bulges or cord movement and tread depth. For most riding conditions you need a minimum depth of 2/32" of tread depth measured in the center of the tire (or more). While you are down there looking at the rubber, check the hoop too. Look for cracking as well as deformed edges where the tire seats on the rim you get those hitting Michigan potholes.
Apologize heck. You know what he meant. Least we aren't into sines, co-sines, tangents and co-tangents and we aren't into minutes and seconds of arc either. I'm still waiting for your call....?
I got 14,000 out of my front tire running max 41 psi with no irregular wear. Rear tire usually had 40 psi. Of course rear tire wear is non-negotioable due to high wear rates due to acceleration factors . 44 psi in the rear is over the max allowed by the tire maker and could end up causing some real problems....blow outs for one !
Bigern
Hey Flip, what about secant & cosecant? No radians or grads? Can't leave them out. I'll get with you ASAP, OK? We have the room covered, just need to give you some location/direction info, correct?
Glad everyone is discussing tire pressure as I'll be putting 1200 miles on this weekend. Thanks for the input.
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