Starting Issue

I have a 2005 R3. I've fixed a few problems and added many upgrades through the years (most upgrades came from this site), but I've dealing with something now that is driving me nuts. The bike starts fine when the handlebars are turned from mid position to the right, but won't fire when the handlebars are positioned from mid point (straight ahead) and to the left.
Had trouble about a year ago and had the ignition switch replaced by a local repair shop. Read up on that repair both before and after on this site (very helpful) and didn't want to do myself because of the twist-off screws holding the switch in place. When the switch failed it was completely dead when the switch was turned on. No lights, no instruments, nothing. It worked fine with the new switch till last week and then started this stuff with handlebar movement.
My first thought was the ignition switch, so I tore it down and found the guy who replaced the switch last fall only put one if the screws back in and it wasn't tight, making the switch loose. Also found the cable poorly routed. Thought that must be the problem, stress on the cable when handlebars turned to the left, so I re-routed the cable, installed screws and put everything back together. Still didn't work, so I tore it back down, completely removed the switch, checked the solder joints, all good, and then checked the wiring continuity. Not only did I check each wire from plug to solder joint, I checked wire to wire with the switch in the on (and off) positions... white to yellow closed with switch on-open when off, etc. Found no problems. Put everything back together and it did the same thing with the handlebar turn.
Closely inspected the way the cables were routed and found the cable from the right side handle bar to the connector under the gas tank a little tight with the bar turned to the left, so i rerouted it, pulled the connector apart and cleaned and inspected both plugs, then tried starting the thing up. Still starts only with the handlebar turned to the right.
Last time,removed the switch, hooked the cable back up, and laid it under the propped up motor. Took all the stress I could find off the cables. Turned the handlebars right to left and left to right, can't see any cable under gas tank moving in the slightest. Left motor propped up and plastic cable cover on left side of frame removed. With handlebars turned to left I wiggled every wire and moved every connector I could see while holding the clutch control handle and start button in. Won't start. Slowly turned the handlebars to the right and every time I get half way, it fires and starts right up. Turn to left and it remains running.
Also, every time I turn the key on, I get bot the headlights and the instrument cluster on as they should, no matter where the handlebars are positioned.

Anyone seen this before? If so, what the hell is wrong.
Second question, if I can't fix it, would you continue to ride it with this problem? Currently, it never fails to start when the handlebars are turned to the right.
Thanks,
Donnie D. from Kentucky.

Helps if you do a proper intro. BTW Welcome.

OK - So if i am reading this correctly your have ALL instruments and gauge sweep in ANY handle bar position.
But starter motor wont engage till the bars are positioned to the right!!!
Once started the bike WILL run and operate at any handle bar position.
My thoughts are either clutch Switch fail or starter button circuit fail.
I assume you can not hear the starter relay click.
TRY:
Bridging the clutch switch wires just for elimination purposes to see what happens when you try to start in various handle bar positions.
OR:
start switch wiring is bad somewhere along the circuit.

At the time of the repair last year did you add the relay fix or just replace the switch?

TO rocket said:

At the time of the repair last year did you add the relay fix or just replace the switch?

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Thanks for the replies. As to the second response, all I did was have the switch replaced. I've read up on the relay installation on this site, but I haven't seen any clear step by step instructions on how to make make the modification or where to get the parts.

I appreciate the guidance in the first response. It helped me locate the problem. I had not given any thought to the clutch handle switch being the problem. I had already rerouted the switch cable and rerouted the start button cable group (plus cleaning the connector coming from the right handlebar). I had looked at the left handlebar cable and assured it was not moving when I rotated the handlebars, but I didn't look at it closely.
When I did, I found where the left handlebar cable and instrument cluster cable had a cable tie holding them over more to the center of the steering column at the area where they leave the handle bar and go under the plastic cover just in front of the bear claw. Also found by rotating the steering to the left about a half inch at a time these two cables were being pinched when the handlebar was rotated left. I cut all the cables ties on the left side of the handlebar, pulled up a little slack from beneath the gas tank, and now have them floating free in the cable holder clip on the triple tree.
Everything's back together now and it's working fine. My guess is over time the movement got to the point where it was somehow taking the clutch cable to ground, or shorting out the two wires going the clutch switch at the pinch point. Probably should look further, but for right now I'm leaving well enough alone. It's working and I'm happy.
I don't know if the fellow who replace the switch put that cable tie on, or if I did when I installed the handlebar risers about 10 years ago. I do remember I had to reroute the cables with that modification from the front to the rear of the triple tree. Also know he wrapped the switch cable around the outside of all the other cables on that side of the bike. Since the cable is short it was much better (but harder) to route the switch cable under the other cables and keep it as close to the bike frame as possible . (Yea.. I think he did it...)

I appreciate the help. I was at a point of surrendering. First problem in 12 year that literally whipped my ass.

If it acts up again I know the cable causing the issue and the exact area where the pinch point was located, but I'm not tearing into that cable unless I absolutely have to. I've experienced that issue of causing more problems by trying to fix one. Don't want to do that here.

If anyone has specific info (parts and instructions) on how to reroute power to headlights around the ignition switch I'd be interested in looking at it.

Donnie D.

Search for Eastern Beaver Relay kit or for kits by Hanso

Ygransom said:

Search for Eastern Beaver Relay kit or for kits by Hanso

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If you don't do this you WILL have the problem again.

Ygransom said:

Search for Eastern Beaver Relay kit or for kits by Hanso

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That should say DeCosse not Hanso. Both are good guys, but DeCosse understands electrical issues and Hanso can help with a tune.

Ygransom said:

That should say DeCosse not Hanso. Both are good guys, but DeCosse understands electrical issues and Hanso can help with a tune.

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Put an @ in front it the name and the member will be tagged and know if they need to respond i.e. @DEcosse

Look here if you want to make your own Home Made EB headlight relay harness

Mittzy said:

OK - So if i am reading this correctly your have ALL instruments and gauge sweep in ANY handle bar position.
But starter motor wont engage till the bars are positioned to the right!!!
Once started the bike WILL run and operate at any handle bar position.
My thoughts are either clutch Switch fail or starter button circuit fail ....

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If the problem is as Mitzy has described, then indeed it MUST be the start or clutch switch - most likely the latter

DonRoc3 said:

..... . My guess is over time the movement got to the point where it was somehow taking the clutch cable to ground, or shorting out the two wires going the clutch switch at the pinch point. Probably should look further, but for right now I'm leaving well enough alone ....

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Overcoming the interlock IS shorting the signal wire to Ground - so shorting the two wires, or shorting to ground would actually not cause the issue, in fact the opposite - would be like the switch being made constantly

It will almost surely re-appear - bad connections caused by routing are not 'fixed' by re-routing - the strain on the cable creates a bad joint somewhere and the connection will be hit or miss so ultimately will require some resolution
One thing to note is that this type of problem is often by something as simple as using an after-market lever - when the lever is adjusted closer to the bar, when the lever is pulled, the plunger pin in the switch does not extend far enough to close the switch - this is simple to identify by just adjusting the lever to the widest span setting (furthest from bar)
However in this case, since being affected by the bars position, almost certainly a stressed wire or junction.