Run premium fuel?

If by Drygas you mean Heet then it is just alcohol you are adding to your tank. Same as burning ethanol fuel. I looked at some of the articles linked and they are not always correct.

Ethanol is in the fuel as an oxygenater, it is not there to replace our dependency on foreign fuel if the ratio is 10% or less. It is in there to replace other chemicals which were found in ground water. (now if that testing was finding it from exhaust which then came down in rain or from leaking old fuel tanks is an entirely different discussion.)

Because of the EPA requirements even the non ethanol fuel is going to go bad than the fuel we had as kids did. It all goes bad faster, in fact for me the only fuel I have had go bad on me is the non E fuel. I think it just wasn't fresh enough.

Ethanol has been around for 35+ years, anything that couldn't handle it has had a carburetor rebuild long ago.

When you see a pump with E10 on it, that means it can have a max of 10%, it could be 2% it could be 0%, it just won't be over 10%.

Fuel quality varies greatly in different areas. I (and others in different areas of the country) have never had an issue with E10 going bad but but other people can't let it sit for a month without it turning.

This is for the US as I have no knowledge of ethanol fuel in other countries.
 
If by Drygas you mean Heet then it is just alcohol you are adding to your tank. Same as burning ethanol fuel. I looked at some of the articles linked and they are not always correct.

Ethanol is in the fuel as an oxygenater, it is not there to replace our dependency on foreign fuel if the ratio is 10% or less. It is in there to replace other chemicals which were found in ground water. (now if that testing was finding it from exhaust which then came down in rain or from leaking old fuel tanks is an entirely different discussion.)

Because of the EPA requirements even the non ethanol fuel is going to go bad than the fuel we had as kids did. It all goes bad faster, in fact for me the only fuel I have had go bad on me is the non E fuel. I think it just wasn't fresh enough.

Ethanol has been around for 35+ years, anything that couldn't handle it has had a carburetor rebuild long ago.

When you see a pump with E10 on it, that means it can have a max of 10%, it could be 2% it could be 0%, it just won't be over 10%.

Fuel quality varies greatly in different areas. I (and others in different areas of the country) have never had an issue with E10 going bad but but other people can't let it sit for a month without it turning.

This is for the US as I have no knowledge of ethanol fuel in other countries.
The Drygas has such a high concentration of alcohol, it will actually change any water laying in the bottom of the tank into something that will burn along with
the gas already in the tank.. Here in the mountains, even a tiny amount will freeze in the fuel lines and cause a no start in the morning. We only use Drygas just before winter hits.
 
The Drygas has such a high concentration of alcohol, it will actually change any water laying in the bottom of the tank into something that will burn along with
the gas already in the tank.. Here in the mountains, even a tiny amount will freeze in the fuel lines and cause a no start in the morning. We only use Drygas just before winter hits.
Any alcohol will grab the water and help it burn so the Drygas will work the same as burning ethanol fuel. In the north there is something called Heet that is the same thing.
 
Any alcohol will grab the water and help it burn so the Drygas will work the same as burning ethanol fuel. In the north there is something called Heet that is the same thing.
Yeah I thought so, that's why I said isn't dry gas just alcohol.
But would there really be a big problem in the tank with the cap on sealed and a check valve on the evaporation canister, how is water or air for that matter going to get in, it can get out but it can't get in, can it??? But the tank has to let something in or it would build up a vacuum and not let the fuel flow, right??? Just thinking too much!!!🤣😂
 
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Yeah I thought so, that's why I said isn't dry gas just alcohol.
But would there really be a big problem in the tank with the cap on sealed and a check valve on the evaporation canister, how is water or air for that matter going to get in, it can get out but it can't get in, can it??? But the tank has to let something in or it would build up a vacuum and not let the fuel flow, right??? Just thinking too much!!!🤣😂
Technically water cant get into a sealed fuel container, but it does have a tendency to go out of phase.. When that happens, the alcohol that is lighter than gasoline settles
to the bottom of the tank where your fuel pick up is.. Takes a couple months for this to happen, but when it does the alcohol begins to mix with the condensation in the
fuel tank, and it turns black. Everytime you fill up, some ambient air gets into the tank during refueling.. That small amount of air plus the heating and cooling of the fuel in the tank causes the tank to sweat inside when its not completely full.. Keeping the tank topped off is the best remedy to keep water/oxygen out to create less condensate.

Drygas and HEET additive has a relatively high alcohol content to allow it to mix with and condensate so it can be burned off. Isopropranol alcohol works best.
Simply adding more gasoline with 10% alcohol wont remove the water thats already in the tank. It has to be a high concentration of alcohol. Once gasoline goes out of phase
it creates all kinds of problems in the injectors and corrosion in the fuel lines.
 
Tanks are vented too, I don't believe there's any kind of check valve in the vent
There is some sort of pressure relief valve in the cap because when i refuel after a ride, i can hear small puffs of air being released for up to 24 hours or more while
the bike is just sitting there. Also made the mistake once of re-opening the gas cap after refueling to wipe of the lip under the cap that spilled, and fuel came gushing out all over the tank and my lap. Just glad it didnt cause a fire.
 
The water doesn't get into a sealed container. Gas has a higher vapor pressure than the surrounding air so it is always under a little pressure if you have a tank that will keep a little pressure in there. Most all tanks now will do that because there are emissions tests where a vehicle has to sit in a hot room and not vent fuel fumes. They will vent if the pressure becomes high enough. Because of the higher vapor pressure you don't need to worry about letting air into the tank, though if there is enough of a vacuum it can. Most of the time though the vapor pressure will be enough.

If you have a tank that can "breath" freely then you can pull in moisture from the air. The alcohol will go out of phase when it gets saturated with water, it will then fall out of suspension.
 
What i know about the evap system
There is a small air pump and under the right conditions (maybe 5/8 to 7/8 )
fuel level it pumps air (i am assumming fresh air) into the tank system about 1 psi and the ecu moniters this with a sensor and will code with small leak or large gross leak.
 
I run premium. The higher octane provides protection from pre-detonation, and quality brand premium fuels have more and better detergents to clean fuel injectors and help prevent carbon buildup on valves and pitons. What premium fuel does not provide is more power, that is a common misconception.
There is no misconception when you consider vehicles equipped with knock sensors. Premium fuel DOES have the ability to at the very least provide all the power the manufacturer has engineered into the vehicle, be it car or bike. The running of a lower octane fuel in many vehicles is handled and kept safe through the use of knock control. Knock control will allow a vehicle to reach its intended full potential. So although premium fuel will NOT give more than the intended maximum performance engineered into the vehicle, the use of a lower octane fuel has the potential to decrease performance, as a result of timing being pulled in order to keep an engine together!!!
 
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