Question about Noise while releasing clutch

The manual talks about de-staking the center nut. Is that necessary to just replace the plates?
I wouldn't think so, but you're ahead of me @Protonhound doing the clutch on the 2.5. I'm planning to do the 40K service soon and was going to check on the plate wear while I was in there. You're leading the way on this- please let us know what you find out. Thanks
 
I'll have to look into it further, manuals tend to have you taking apart way more stuff than necessary.
I need to make sure that I'm looking at the clutch plate replacement section rather than how to dismantle the entire clutch.
That manual is a bit of a disaster. It bounces all over the place.
 
I'll have to look into it further, manuals tend to have you taking apart way more stuff than necessary.
I need to make sure that I'm looking at the clutch plate replacement section rather than how to dismantle the entire clutch.
I feel pretty sure that you do not need to pull the clutch basket, which would require de-staking the center nut (page 381, clutch removal).

If it's at all like the 2.3s you just need to remove the release plate and springs (pg 385, clutch disassembly).

I plan on taking lots of pictures or, better yet, video when disassembling the plates. It's very easy to mix up the order of things and, once again, the manual is less than clear. For example, when I read...

During installation, make sure that the anti-judder spring is installed with its
smaller (internal) diameter facing outwards towards the clutch centre.

Also make sure that the steel plates are installed so that the face with the curved
edges is facing outwards towards the clutch centre.


Facing outwards toward the centre? Maybe that will make more sense when I'm in there, but seeing how it was originally installed is better yet.
 
Speaking of which, on page 381 it says to rotate the engine counterclockwise. Going by my memory (often flawed), I'm pretty sure that I rotated it clockwise when I was adjusting the valves.

Screenshot 2025-12-02 at 6.23.48 AM.png


An Internet search produced this....
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Engine Rotation Direction for Triumph Motorcycles​

General Direction​

Most Triumph motorcycle engines, including the Triumph Triple models, rotate clockwise when viewed from the front of the engine. This is the standard direction for many modern motorcycle engines.
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I'll probably rotate the rear wheel in the forward direction of travel to confirm which way is correct, but @Protonhound if you can let us know too, that would be great.
 
With a longitudinal engine you can always tell which way the engine rotates by revving it in neutral with the clutch lever pulled while stopped. If the bike (tries to) rotate to the left, the crank is rotating to the right, and vice versa. As I recall, the bike tries to lean left, so the engine would be rotating right (clockwise viewed from the rear of the engine or anti-clockwise viewed from the front of the engine.

It's the same effect as a helicopter that loses its tail rotor.
 
With a longitudinal engine you can always tell which way the engine rotates by revving it in neutral with the clutch lever pulled while stopped. If the bike (tries to) rotate to the left, the crank is rotating to the right, and vice versa. As I recall, the bike tries to lean left, so the engine would be rotating right (clockwise viewed from the rear of the engine or anti-clockwise viewed from the front of the engine.

It's the same effect as a helicopter that loses its tail rotor.

might need to edit that last part
 
I'll go back to it soon enough, removing the entire clutch does not make any sense just to replace the plates. I'm going to call a couple of different Triumph shops tomorrow and ask their service department. Either way I have all the parts no matter what.
I feel pretty confident it will be very similar to the process on my '11 Roadster. This is a good tutorial...
 
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