No more wobble

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Nat, had a real problem with an ST1300 I owned a few...okay, many moons ago. Same problem! I have always found that the tyres needed changing as a pair. Hardly surprising when the (when new) front tyre was 5mm depth and rear was 8mm. These were the Bridgestone 020)The cupping occurred near the end of front tyre life, but as soon as rear needed changing so did the front. I was very careful of tyre pressure, never overloaded (I couldn't get her to ride pillion) and as for heavy braking....it did occur at every junction!! It always struck me that it was a manufacturers design to make you change as many tyres as possible = max profit!!

 

[bigprop]

Run avon cobras front and back never had a problem. With hands on or off bars. Do check tyre pressure once a week though

 

[Claviger]

As nat67 said, suspension and weight. Brake hard .... is there any other way?

Consider this, I run 32F36R, have over 7,000 miles on my front Cobra and it’s not cupped even a little bit.

Suspension done on both ends and light (for a Rocket) bike.

 

[TURBO200R4]

jmo
when u go into a corner u have to push the bars in the opposite direction so u r actually turning the bars the opposite way u r going so then u r scuffing (for lack of a better word) the rubber off the tire.
the harder u take the corner the more rubber u take off. (cupping)

 

[Nat67]

Counter steering is the only way to steer a motorcycle properly . An incorrectly set up front end tears the crap outta tyres . If the suspension isnt right , it causes the tyre to distort massively thus scrubbing the rubber from where it shouldnt . Running the pressure too low for your weight and style of riding will also achieve this .as rob says , he has invested a lot of time and money into his suspension and reaps the benefit of a plush , planted front end and I'm guessing 2 rears to every front there abouts and the guy certainly hoons it .

 

[Nat67]

Nat, had a real problem with an ST1300 I owned a few...okay, many moons ago. Same problem! I have always found that the tyres needed changing as a pair. Hardly surprising when the (when new) front tyre was 5mm depth and rear was 8mm. These were the Bridgestone 020)The cupping occurred near the end of front tyre life, but as soon as rear needed changing so did the front. I was very careful of tyre pressure, never overloaded (I couldn't get her to ride pillion) and as for heavy braking....it did occur at every junction!! It always struck me that it was a manufacturers design to make you change as many tyres as possible = max profit!!

I'm gonna tell her what you said
The tyre would cup nearer the end of its life as the sidewalls lose strength and again are more prone to distortion . A well set up front end helps minimalise that . I have always got at least 2 rears for every front , sometimes more when I had the Busa. As I said, careful inspection of your tyres and a bit of applied logic will make your tyres last longer . Next time you watch a superbike race in slow motion , pay attention to the flex in the fronts , you will be amazed !

 

[Claviger]

If I could ever get a rear to wear out before picking up a nail

As you say, an improper front setup will load the tires more, while providing less grip, faster wear and a harsh ride all at once.

Considering I’m on the lighter end of the R3 owner spectrum, at 200lbs. Id guess most R3s+ rider are coming in at 1050-1150 lbs, and that’s before bags and passengers. consider the fronts sprung for someone roughly in the 130lb range and you can see why the front tire gets the crap beat out of it.

 

[sonny]

Well been following the post with interest. I have the Michelin 140 Scorcher mounted up front and the bridgestone Exdra max bringing up the rear. Works great. Second time around with this set up. Progressive springs and progressive shocks (444's) Headstock bearings new and wheel bearings new. (under 10,000 miles) No wobble all the way up to my top end of 137 miles per hour. No cupping either. Check the tire pressure weekly. Runs smooth down the highway and when I want to have some fun no concern about traction. It is there. Don't think it is so much about the brand of tire as compared to maintenance of your bike.

 

[barbagris]

Regarding cupping. Centrifugal force (OK really centripetal) held in check by one tiny friction patch on tarmac that resembles a rasp. Lots of weight plus lots of speed and lots of corners equals wear. Warm climate ups the anti. But also - I think- the tyre crown radius has to match the steering angles etc. And tbh we do't have much choice.

 

[rng3]

Part number ?
Cupping on front motorcycle tyres is caused by 3 things , tyre pressure too low , overloading and heavy braking . If any or all of those things are not addressed , any stickyish tyre you use will cup . It's not hard to gauge how a tyre is wearing and if showing abnormal or uneaven wear , adjust the tyre pressures accordingly and maybe think about stiffening your front forks a bit !

Just curious about the Hagon rear shocks you mentioned.

Rick