Nev's Lock Up Clutch

MTC is developing new fibers kit for R3 as we speak.

Do not use kevlar fibers kit with lock-up clutch.
 


I haven't been able to find any negative info regarding Barnett's clutch material, that's why I went ahead and got it. I figure they have been using the same stuff since the 1990s and their clutches have been used in a ton of different bikes. It's also a fiber, so I don't see what is particularly abrasive about it. On second thought I have worn kevlar for about 10 years now, maybe that's why I am broke down. What I planned on doing is getting an oil analysis done to verify. BTW the same type of thing has been said about using K&Ns.

hombre said:
MTC is developing new fibers kit for R3 as we speak.

Do not use kevlar fibers kit with lock-up clutch.
Click to expand...


I would imagine it is from the swelling of the friction plates. Tolerances seem to make all the difference in how the lock up works. You really probably don't get any clutch wear with a lock-up anyway, because it never slips.
 
clutch

I find it hard to believe I have not got an email about this thread. Murray and I have many folk who just ride about without any problem.If the clutch feels any different from stock (apart from firmer pull) you have a problem. Unless you are trying to pull in the lever at 6000 to change gear you can use it about the street with no issue. We have actually done this.Tom, if you have not talked to Murray,my email is nlrace1@bigpond.com. Hombre there two clutches. There are different instructions for each.
 
Pig9r you are probably right about the Kevlar not being abrasive. I do not remember who told me not to use them hell it might have been hombre when I was thinking of going with the lock up. (I guess I'm getting old) I wonder if the fibers break down enough as to not drag any abrasive type worn metal thru the block or if they swell collect things and plug stuff up a bit. I bought new Triumph ones a head of time when I did the lock up cause I did not want to tear down and find out I need them. Turns out my originals with 30K on them were just fine so well let’s say I have an extra set on the wall maybe when I get done breaking **** I will be able to open a Triumph parts shop. I believe I have 2 lifter shafts, 2 lifter pieces, 2 clutch cover gaskets, I don't have to order timing chain, cam gears, or chain guides either for this tear down.

I will stay with the lock up as I find it reliable and quite frankly love it.
As for the so called heavier pull I have added a compression die spring to my cable at the block to insure it came off the back face of the lifter shaft. I did this cause my return spring inside on the lifter shaft IMO was bad and did not arrive quick enough so I improvised a little I'll go take a picture and edit into this in a bit.

Ok I am back and I see Nev was posting while I was lolly gaging around and I side with him set up and operation is of utmost importance. I broke a lifter shaft using the clutch above 6K oops another leraning experience.


so the first picture is of the spring I add like I said right where it goes into the clutch case. I might add that I do have a new return spring and might remove this one although it is a good reminder not to over pull or to think before squeezing at the wrong time.




the next will give you a idea of the work I am into this time




I hope the wires go back in easier then they came out
 
Last edited:
clutch BTW

One can push start the R3 with our clutch fitted. I can't as they are too heavy for me and they do a skid but if YOU COULD before you still would be able to with the clutch.
 
You can't push start a Rekluse without putting in a shim plate. I know that, I know someone who has one. I know nothing about your design. I do know this however......

I spent Monday in Marne, Iowa at Baxter's Triumph. Quite a bit of that time was spent with Gus, the head technician at Baxter's and Gus assured me the if I wanted to increase the horsepower of my R3, anything under 200 horsepower could be handled by the stock clutch plates with the addition of heavy duty spings. Having said that, I have no desire to be anything other than an observer. I'm quite content with my stock R3.
 
i have had to push start one, even down a hill with a 2nd gear bump it was as much fun as trying to wrestle a donut away from brian... jump start it anyway you can.
 

Tomo

You were correct that changing shim will limit travel of ball bearings. Read details on lock-up function from Muzz (Murray Lewis) on R3P. Gold clutch is different from red clutch.
 
Thanks Walt, I will.

Nev... we thought you were busy and we are just having a bit of fun here, it doesn't hurt to have a better understanding of how things work.

I have a question for you... My gold lock up clutch came with shims (you know that ). When I got the clutch it was like I got a piece of jewelery and I took it all apart to look at it and check it out. Now, I have had the horrible thought that those double stacked shims may not be the same thickness. In other words, if there was a thin shim and a thick shim in each stack, I may have not re-assembled it that way and may have put two thick shims together and two thin shims together, therefore scewing up the distance the pressure plate is shimed out, and possibly making it uneven (which would explain why it acts like it does).

If all the shims are the same thickness, then that's not the problem....
 
Id like to see that
Stock clutch will slip at just over 150rwhp.Im pretty sure a few guys have tried heavier springs and still had troubles
 
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