Nev's Lock Up Clutch

Had mine in for well over 2 years now and over 10000 miles, not a single problem and I hammer the fcuk out of my fat arse gal,

I just opend mine up last night to sort out my compression issues or lack of. Since I have the new style blower cover I would have to take this off to see the timing marks on the crank to reassemble. The clutch is doing fine and I must be learning cause my third lifter shaft is a charm!!! No damage what so ever to the shaft and visible signs of wear I must be learning the set up and operation!
So far so good except I definetly lost the head gasket as the signs off coolant in the lower end show On the plus side maybe I did not break the rings in #2 & #3 cylinders. I will know more this morning when I pull the cam ladder, cams and the head.

Scott

While you're in there, you might want to upgrade those old cam blades to new style and check cam chain stretch.

http://www.r3owners.net/common-issues/4629-cam-blade-upgrade.html

My thoughts exactly and I do have cam gears chain and new guides on the shelf. I remember reading your post on chain stretch a while ago when I first put the blower on so I ordered the parts back then in case. My chain looks great and when I put the new blower drive gear/hub on the bike it took even more slop out of it. I am thinking of sending the head off to art for his rework and cams. i will probably change the piston as I do not know if the stock ones will clear the valves with his came. That has already been worked out on his pistons. I will be staying with the same compression as with all the lower end power his cams will deliver I do not know what I will do to cantain her at Higher boost levels. I might have to lower the boost a little or come up with some type of boost blow off/regulator to keep her in the insane limit department. I will be having him O-ring the head also.
I will be picking Arts, Nevs, and your brain of course as to the best cam set up?
gots to go buy another T-55 socket as the one I have is a piece of week **** when it comes to the head bolts, them buggers are tight

These upgrades along with the set of predators Sam is making for me could bring a hole new definition to a fast bagger

This discussion has enlightened me a great deal on lock up clutches. If I understand correctly .. the balls are there to be slung outward by RPM. The force of them moving outward is utilized by sloping channels in the disc thus forcing the clutch plates together with more force than just springs, right? And the trouble with that is at high RPM's the balls overcome the pressure to slide back toward the center causing the "clutch won't release" complaint. If I get the jist right, then just medium to hard acceleration would require learning to change driving habits and train yourself to shift without the clutch nearly all of the time. Now that WOULD take some getting used to. I'm not sure if I'm ready to give up that kind of comfort even though the stock clutch is not holding the power it has now. Is there a compromise?

Warp looks like you got a good enough reason to give her a birthday.......

Setting the correct clearance of the lockup is as important as making sure cable adjustment is spot on, as those with worn or broken lifter shafts will attest to.

The designer of the R3 lock-up clutch, Murray Lewis, is at R3Power to answer questions.

HellFire said:

This discussion has enlightened me a great deal on lock up clutches. If I understand correctly .. the balls are there to be slung outward by RPM. The force of them moving outward is utilized by sloping channels in the disc thus forcing the clutch plates together with more force than just springs, right? And the trouble with that is at high RPM's the balls overcome the pressure to slide back toward the center causing the "clutch won't release" complaint. If I get the jist right, then just medium to hard acceleration would require learning to change driving habits and train yourself to shift without the clutch nearly all of the time. Now that WOULD take some getting used to. I'm not sure if I'm ready to give up that kind of comfort even though the stock clutch is not holding the power it has now. Is there a compromise?

Click to expand...

Hellfire there is options depending on how you ride and what set up you are running maybe your a guy that has the power but does not use it enough to slip a clutch. Maybe stiffer springs are for you. I often wondered how Nev's clutch would work with out the bearings in it and with his springs, or perhaps Richards stiffer springs in Nev's clutch would also be a different variation. I think Nev's clutch head (Stationary) set up with the his tuffer pressure plate (movable clutch head) is better then the Triumph one.
Still I have learned that a properly set up and used the lock up clutch works just great
As for clutchless shifting I did that before the lock up (especially when I was lazy) and on normal cruising it shifts smooth as silk whether you have a lock up or not.

I think I would go the route of stiffer springs with stock clutch. Barnett makes stiffer springs or if you buy a their clutch kit it comes with springs and new friction plates. I am running the Barnett clutch kit now. I haven't encountered any slipping however, I think the compound used in Barnett's friction plates swell more than the stock plates (could also be there is more material) so the clutch engages differently depending on how hot or cold the engine is. I am thinking about just using the inner most and outer most plates from the Barnett pack and then use the remaining stock plates.

I rode some with Tom this weekend, he'll have some to add about the lock up.

I did not go the barnet route because of the kevlar material in their clutches I was worried about pumping the material thru the engine. I did order different springs to try from EBC but they are made on the other side of the pond and it will be about 6 months by the time I might receive them. I will await Toms ride report before I stick my foot further down my throat. I still love the lock up