Need some help with this one please!

Went out on a bit of a bimble today, got about 70 miles and the bike started to falter - as if running out of juice. Plenty of fuel so not that, throttled back and on again - same problem. Returned home and symptom's persisted all the way back.

Checked with TuneECU - no error codes - all tests successful - throttle bodies in sync etc, so reloaded the standard tune, reset adaptive's and took it out for a test. Problem still there but not quite as bad. Got close to empty so refilled with fresh fuel - still no good. Noticed that it seemed worse between 2000-3000rpm when winding on. At 2000rpm on steady throttle it seemed normal.

This is my first bike with computer controlled fuel and ignition and I'm stumped - help

Bike is a late 2009 Classic - standard everything, 6015mls, new TPS under warranty at 4800mls.

TPS can still be a problem if it's not the updated version (blue internals). At those revs it could be a loose wire because that's the zone that rockets seem to vibrate (check coil wires). Are the tach and speedo resetting when it happens (could be ignition switch if they are).

Gothlander said:

TPS can still be a problem if it's not the updated version (blue internals). At those revs it could be a loose wire because that's the zone that rockets seem to vibrate (check coil wires). Are the tach and speedo resetting when it happens (could be ignition switch if they are).

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The TPS was replaced by Triumph last September and I had to wait over a week for it to come in to the dealer so would have thought its the later type - will check today. At the same time I will check wiring connections and pipes under the tank, plus the crank position sensor and anything else I have read about on here.

The tach and speedo both are as normal whilst this happens, there are no other signs at all, the bike just jerks on and off power.

Had the tank off today and checked all connectors, didn't part any, just checked they were fully engaged and secure. Also checked crank position sensor, that was clean.

Was surprised how loose the blade terminals were on the coils, although they needed a fair tug to part them they were quite a loose fit once the dimple in the female engaged in the hole in the male, i.e. fully home. Thinking this was a bit suspect I squeezed all six with a pair of pliers and refitted. Went for a test run - bike now working good.

Cant say for sure this was the cause/cure but ????????? Might be worth remembering for the future.

Sounds exactly like what mine was doing. Worst around 2500 rpm. I brought it to the dealer for 20,000 mi. service and told them it was running rough. I'll mention the coil wires, or post if it was something else.

I'd guess the rpm is equivalent to a vibration that tends to loosen the coupling if it was that easy to fix. You might look at daubing some silver solder on the blade to make a tight connection.

Coils can be tricky business, but the coils on the Rock have the advantage of going to one cylinder. Pull a plug on each cylinder and see if they look the same (light brown is pretty fair for normal A/F mix, any other color on all three will tell you it's an ECU problem OR ignition problem if one doesn't match).

atomsplitter said:

................ Pull a plug on each cylinder and see if they look the same (light brown is pretty fair for normal A/F mix, any other color on all three will tell you it's an ECU problem OR ignition problem if one doesn't match).

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Good advice mate - but getting at the plugs amongst the pile of spaghetti and assorted bits and bobs sitting over the top of the engine, does not inspire me to try.

Edit: Forgot to mention, another 100 miles today - still good.