More Serious Tire Question

Dark Siders/Fellow Rocketiers:

Based upon last week's excellent feedback AND reading through an hour of old threads, I'm gonna start shopping for an Goodyear/Michelin/Yokohama/Riken car tire dealer who will also mount. The site threads have me a little confused regarding:
1> how/if to balance the tire
2> affect upon the shocks (I still have stock shocks and need to spend bike funds in other areas presently vs purchasing better quality--plus I have no complaints re stock)

I have to also include the cost of a bike lift for removal and re-mounting the 'dark assembly'.

Still reserving the right to cave on this decision...any feedback on these points appreciated.

Mk

PS:
3> I think Piano Man filled his with nitrogen. What fer? Anyone else do same?

I have the stock shocks no problem, but if you go wider than a 225 you wil start running into problems, ie. rubbing drive shaft housing, top of shocks, I was able to remove the old and install the new without a special jack (or busajack) by dropping a the right rear blinker it rolled in and out without raising it to high, Guessing, I'm thinking 4 or 5 inches. Higher obviously if you drop it straight down. Biggest obstical is dismounting and mounting the tire on the wheel. I would not attempt to try this at home unless you have some pretty good equipment. Triumph's attempt to reinvent the wheel was ill fated to say the least. there is no drop center on the wheel so I wish you luck. If you are takeing it to a (car) tire dealer do yourself a favor and cut the old carcus off. I used a sabre saw, and bolt cutters to cut the Bead. There is far more chance to damage the wheel in the removal process than installing it. (Cosmetic at least)

Computer balance and stick on weights.

Stick with a motorcycle tire less head aches "What" someone has to stir things up

I am running the Yoko. 245. Has only rubbed a couple of times on large bumps in a turn. I mounted it by hand with tire irons, but it is not a feat for the faint of heart. I never balance my rear tires, just line the dot up with the valve stem and ride. I do have the fronts balanced when I change them. Triumph deserves an ass-kickin' for the design on that rear rim.
It takes some getting used to at low speeds, but after a few hundred miles you won't even notice it. You actually gain some cornering clearance because of the different pivot point on the rear tire. I corner just as hard or harder than I did with the Metz. I have over 5k on mine now and it is not even half worn yet.

i have a yoko on mine its been two weeks and it comes off tomorrow! it just lacks confidence in the corners IMO. ill stick to motorcycle tires for now. just that i haven't ground the pegs once since i put it on and i kinda miss that. could grind both pegs in a straight lane before.

nightrocket said:

i have a yoko on mine its been two weeks and it comes off tomorrow! it just lacks confidence in the corners IMO. ill stick to motorcycle tires for now. just that i haven't ground the pegs once since i put it on and i kinda miss that. could grind both pegs in a straight lane before.

Click to expand...

You are probably leaning just as far, the bike will lean farther before the pegs hit with a darkside rear.
Look under the bike at my rear tire at the end of this little vid.

it just does not feal comfortable leaning that far. atleast on my tire. maybe i just lack the confidence to pull it off but i know im not leaning as far.

The 225/50-16 is 0.49 less wide and about the same less in diameter.

MS_Kid said:

Dark Siders/Fellow Rocketiers:

Based upon last week's excellent feedback AND reading through an hour of old threads, I'm gonna start shopping for an Goodyear/Michelin/Yokohama/Riken car tire dealer who will also mount. The site threads have me a little confused regarding:
1> how/if to balance the tire

Click to expand...

The static balancer from Marcparnes.com had me reaching for my debit card until I stumbled onto Dyna Beads from Innovative Balancing. I'll like get the static balancer eventually but for now I'm going with the beads. Much much cheaper and you never loose wheel weights. Plus it looks nicer, if that's an issue.

MS_Kid said:

2> affect upon the shocks (I still have stock shocks and need to spend bike funds in other areas presently vs purchasing better quality--plus I have no complaints re stock)

I have to also include the cost of a bike lift for removal and re-mounting the 'dark assembly'.

Still reserving the right to cave on this decision...any feedback on these points appreciated.

Mk

Click to expand...

Sears sells a couple of bike lifts. I got their cheap model for about $65 take home. It works great, but you have to roll the front up on a 3/4" plyboard to get enough clearance underneath to slide the lift under. Actually I use an old auto brake disk and get a bit more lift. It's very easy to slide the jack under the bike.

MS_Kid said:

PS: 3> I think Piano Man filled his with nitrogen. What fer? Anyone else do same?

Click to expand...

Mitch Patrie, a Michigander, makes and sells the MojoLever. He has a very informative website. He's got some insight into nitrogen fill. The only proclaimed beneficial aspect that I've not seen dispelled there, was the maintenance of constant pressure. Setting that aside, and acceptance of the recommendations given there, the expense or troubles would not be worth it for me. Mind you, I'm a slacker when it comes to regularly checking tire pressure and for that reason particularly it may be a very good idea.

Once I get my Cooper Zeon 2XS mounted I'll get a feel for whether the shocks work as well as with the Metzler. I'm a bit chunky and find the stock shocks work for me (350 when two up). I've kept them on a medium soft setting since new.