High throtle pissed off!

2005 Rocket, 21000 miles. Have been having high idle problems since April.
Here's the story.
Took it to dealer in April for oil change and throttle adjustment. They could not get it right, it had a PC so they said they'll take it out and make it stock. I got the bike back and it ran fine for a couple of runs (20-30 miles) then the idle went up and stayed at around 1700. After shutting bike off it would reset for a couple of miles and idle would rise again.
Took it back to dealer, they said we'll try a different MAP. Did that still no good. Took it to another dealer and he plugged it in and said nothing showed wrong so I have to leave it with them and they will try to figure it out. I left and took it to the original dealer. So he did some adjustment, found oxygen sensor missing so he put one in, voltage was a little high so adjusted that. I see a couple of things disconnected one I believe is a relay all the way to the right. So I got bike back and ran OK but I can feel it's not 100%. Rode it for about three hours and idle starts creeping up. Again took it out and idle starts going up after about three hours of riding.
What the he'll do I do?

It's not the mapping - that is a classic sign of your Primary TPS being either out of whack or needing replacement.

Why the hell dealers cannot diagnose this is beyond me.

There is an outside chance your crankcase sensor needs cleaning (5 minute job) or your vacuum tubes are leaking (unlikely), but they will show the same symptoms.

Crancase sensor under engine towards rear... I already cleaned.
If it's a vaccuum leak would it not high idle all the time? They say it dosen't show TPS being bad.
Why in hell they removed the relay, and what the hell is it for?

Thanks for your reply.

..get the newer primary TPS with blue innards..that's your problem..dealers don't want to fix your bike..they just want your money..

Thanks, I appreciate your input. You know what's worse... They haven't charged me. You know that just means that they really don't know.

Thanks again.

..well you can at least order the newer model one from that dealer..I don't know the numbers..dealers hate aftermarket fuel management systems..'specially tuneboy..Bishop put a how to in here



I guess you can use a voltmeter..or just have the dealer put it in for ya..don't let 'em talk you out of it..about $130 I think..

My dealer put their meter on the Primary tps that went bad on my back - twice.

On neither occasion did the meter show anything wrong.

Because of advice received from this forum I was convinced it was the tps so I made them an offer.

I pay for a tps, and if it fixed the problem they give me my money back. They didn't go for that, which showed they did not have the courage of their convictions.

New tps fitted, and all high idle and rough running problems solved. They refunded the fitting costs.

Adam listen to the wise old Qwl and your problems willbe over. Also clean and lubricate the throttle assembly by the idle stepper motor with WD-40. When changinging TPS use a .010" shim or at least a shim made from a beer can which is about .005" between the TPS and throttle body. Make sure to perform the full ISCV reset to sync the TPS with the idle stepper motor and the ECU

Thanks everybody. A new TPS it is even if I have to twist the dealers arm. Since I'm not sure of myself to do it properly.

idk said:

Don't let the dealer tell you is is a three hour job like it says in the manual. It can be changed and set up in under ten minutes. The manual says that you have to take the throttle bodies off to access the Primary TPS. YOU DON'T!

It is held on by a Torx screw and you cannot get to it with a Torx bit attached to a driver. What you need to do is hold the Torx bit into the bolt with your finger, and turn it with a small spanner (or wench) using the hexagonal bit of the Torx Bit.

Click to expand...

+1 With TuneBoy this is easy