Headlamp Mod - Single Relay

Yes very interesting. The product the guy sells is top notch. Looking at he and his wifes picture on the link, I think I now know where he came up with the name for the company. :bch:
 
Mainly for UK members that might suffer from the high import costs of getting hold of an EB kit or those that may be put off with the complexity of a twin-relay mod, this topic details what is involved in fitting a single-relay version.

There are arguments for and against both systems that have been previously discussed in other topics on here so I don't think it necessary to repeat them.

All of the items used were bought from Vehicle Wiring Products (www.vehicleproducts.co.uk).

Item List:
1mtr of each - BROWN, BLUE & BLACK 16.5amp PVC Thinwall Cable - Ref.16 @ £0.32p per mtr
2 x In-Line Slice - Ref. RHS @ £0.44p ea.
2 x 6.4mm Ring Terminal - Ref. RR6H @ £0.42p ea.
1 x 30amp 4 Blade Fused Relay - Ref. R30F @ £7.25p
1 x Relay Socket incl Terminals - Ref. RS @ £2.16p
1 x 20amp Blade Fuse - Ref. FB20 @ £0.15p (this to replace the 30amp fuse that comes with the relay)

Items already had:
Cable Sleeving
Shrink Tube
Adhesive PVC Tape

The simple sub-loom before fitting: Replace the 30amp Relay fuse with the 20amp.


Remove seat, l/h side cover and battery terminals:


Detach Starter and Indicator relays (removing both relays makes for easier access).
Cut the plain BLUE cable. I peeled back the sleeving a few mm to expose more of the cable and then cut midway.


Mount the relay behind the battery low enough to have clearance for the tool tray. Feed the wires through to meet the Starter Relay.


Splice the BLUE wires - the wire end nearest the Starter relay must be spliced to the wire going to terminal 86 on the fused relay (see diagram).

Terminals on fused relay:
Brown (positive) wire from battery to 30
Black (negative) wire from battery to 85
Blue wire 'Starter relay end' to 86
Blue wire 'going back into loom' to 87

Wiring diagram:

Nice one Battersea, obviously a lot cheaper than EB & no doubt working just as well. How long have you had this mod in place?. Talking with my dealer the other day he tells me to be careful when cutting into the original harnesses as they are used as a super bus passing communication signals between parts of the bike & can cause confusion in the ECU. He believes that doing the harness from EB would not cause problems but I was wondering if your method had given any problems or if they could build up over time & manifest in the future. I think probably not the case but I mention it just in case something happens later on & takes you by surprise. Well thought out mod though - big thumbs up. If I hadn't felt so lazy I could have saved a load & had the added benefit of depriving Mr Osborne of £36 in duty, Oh well, such is life, apathy rules OK.;)
 
A point to consider Captain but the single relay mod only puts the relay one component (dip switch) sooner in the loom than the EB kit so cant see how it would be any different. Also it is very similar to the Triumph update kit they are fitting to earlier Roadsters.

Not had any problems as yet.

Edit: As far as I know Can-bus sections of wiring looms are identified by being twisted pairs of thin wires, non of the lighting wires are like that.
 
A point to consider Captain but the single relay mod only puts the relay one component (dip switch) sooner in the loom than the EB kit so cant see how it would be any different. Also it is very similar to the Triumph update kit they are fitting to earlier Roadsters.

Not had any problems as yet.

Edit: As far as I know Can-bus sections of wiring looms are identified by being twisted pairs of thin wires, non of the lighting wires are like that.

I didn't know about the twisted pairs but it does seem sensible now you mention it & I'm sure that mods on the lighting circuit won't cause problems, just mentioned by dealer I think as a general comment, Triumph are not going to say that we can break into the harness, but not into twisted pairs.:)
 
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