Header/intake mods and now sputtering/missing not running well. Help??

[JSHRAM]

Help!

Added header (Viking), pipe, vacuum canister delete, RamAir kit and new map (TuneECU).

Bike idles well after it warms up (but doesn't until it is warm), but when you drive it it misses like it isn't firing on all cylinders, but all the plugs look good so if it is missing, it is doing it intermittently. Pops and stuff on decel, but that is likely the map. Map is from the TuneECU site for full Jardines, KN pods, so it should be close enough to make it run.

Talked to Hans and he said I must have a vacuum leak... ran it, sprayed WD40 all around the carbs and hoses, no difference so no vacuum leak. Checked plugs and connections for other wires they all seem good. Then I pulled the coil wires and they are very loose so I wiggled all of them and put them on and off and got some improvement in the ride (surprising). about to yank the tank one more time (getting quite proficient at this) and crimp every coil lead and reattach hoping that is it.

What else could I be missing that would cause it to miss so badly? I'm sure there is something dumb I did that I'm not getting...

I think the bike is beautiful with my mods (Ignore the Fram filter, I needed something and had that, it'll get it changed).. I'm very sad I can't ride it and I work away from home and was hoping I'd get this knocked out before I went full time (I'm home about 6 days a month now).. so, if I can't solve it, I'll need to give up and park it.. I know no one in Southern Utah or Vegas that could mess with it, do you?

Thanks!

John

 

[warp9.9]

Nice looking set up. I think your headed in the right direction the loose low tension leads on the coil can be intermediate. The front one is the hardest to get at there is a plate on top of it that all the harness plugs ends hook to for clean but in the way look I left my plate out.


Anyway once you get that sorted hook up to the ECU and see what the Vacuum readings are on each cylinder if one has a leak or bad connection you should see a large difference in them. If this is true then your bike showing some improvement might show more if you reset the adaptives. In fact I would run a full ISCV reset reason being it allows you to check the Primary TPS setting and stepper motor settings. If they are OK then you just move on thru the reset process and end up resetting the adaptives at the end.

 

[Pedro]

Did you try reloading the tune.

 

[JSHRAM]

Nice looking set up. I think your headed in the right direction the loose low tension leads on the coil can be intermediate. The front one is the hardest to get at there is a plate on top of it that all the harness plugs ends hook to for clean but in the way look I left my plate out.


Anyway once you get that sorted hook up to the ECU and see what the Vacuum readings are on each cylinder if one has a leak or bad connection you should see a large difference in them. If this is true then your bike showing some improvement might show more if you reset the adaptives. In fact I would run a full ISCV reset reason being it allows you to check the Primary TPS setting and stepper motor settings. If they are OK then you just move on thru the reset process and end up resetting the adaptives at the end.

Thanks! I'm going to start with the coil wires. I did test runs with TuneECU and the TB readings are pretty close and I did reset the adaptives, but might do it again since it is running better with the coil wires thingey. It was doing this severe sputting before I loaded the map (with the TORS map) so I don't think it is the map.

Yes, the front coil has rediculous access. With the intake gone the bike certainly has room for coil over plugs. Anyone ever done that change? I'm going to do it on my Magna that I am heavily modifying simply because I no longer have room for the coils, so they are going on top of the plugs.

Thanks!

Oh, and yes being away from home so much sucks... but 2 years 10 months and I can retire.. I doubt I'll be staying around much after that... since after the day I can retire, every day I work I'm working for 50% of my pay, since I can earn 50% of it by doing nothing....not the greatest retirement, but a lot better than many.

 

[JSHRAM]

Crimping the coil coil connections got me back on the HWY. Now it idles smooth if you let it settle.. after a ride or a blip it wants to almost die then picks back up. It runs very poorly up to 2,000rpm, then pulls hard and smooth to 3000rpm.. after 3000 it will cruise at any speed, but if you hit the throttle it misses so you have to massage the throttle to get it to pull past the misses and increase speed, which it does.

So, I think it is running well enough for a dyno run.. problem being I can't find anyone that will dyno using TuneECU.. they all want to use a Power Commander.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

John

 

[warp9.9]

I would still do a ISCV reset and reflash the tune then you might be looking a a Primary TPS issue if its not just a adjustment.

 

[Claviger]

My suggestion would be to throw the STOCK tune back in the ECU. Go ride it but not full throttle, just ride it around. If it runs right, you know the problem is the tune, if it demonstrates the same problems, you have an issue elsewhere.

At least it will quickly eliminate the tune as the culprit.

I wouldn't suggest putting it on a dyno until you're sure everything is working properly.

 

[JSHRAM]

GOT IT RUNNING!

Checked and checked and drove and drove.. got it so it would run 1/2 throttle pretty well.. then on a 500 mile trip it went real south the last 100 miles... thought I wouldn't make it. So, I concluded that something came loose, most likely gunk in the fuel system from sitting those 4 years not being run... so I tore apart the tank, fuel pump was corroded and the spacer rubber thing and isolation rubber washer were completely rotted. Sent the injectors off to RC Injectors and they were HORRIBLE!.. They were putting out 10% of what they should (well, two of them were and one was 50%)....

Anyway, completely new fuel system and it pulls stumps, cruises at 1500rpm easily and pulls from there to 110mph like nothing.. hey, it is even quieter too.. not sure I understand that, but the sound is lower and smoother (of course).

So, 4 years of ethanol fuel with no sea foam or stabil is a recipe for disaster. A bit of research and ethanol breaks down fuel and separates it left unattended.... anyway, RC Injectors charges $22 per injector to map it before, clean it, and map it again after to prove it is 100%.. and their turnaround is very fast.