Greetings From Sunny Essex

[Pauls999]

Had the Rocket 3R for 2 weeks now and got a couple of hundred miles on the clock, everything is working fine and its a great bike. I wanted a red one but there was nothing available however the local dealer had a cancelled order on a black one in the showroom so I got that rather than waiting until Sept or longer when the biking season is tailing off here in the UK. Mulling over having it resprayed in Mazda Soul Red Crystal, I think that would work really well on this, so if anyone knows how to take off the fuel tank and the connections to remove I like to hear from them

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Hi Paul and welcome to the forum from a fellow Brit. There are a couple of members here who have managed to download the manual and should be able to help - @MrPix or @greenturbobob - see this thread:

WORKSHOP MANUALS NEW MODEL

I did the same... not allowed to share it unfortunately. took me much longer than 2 hours though! you can print to pdf... each individual section... there are around 1600 pages split amongst a 'few' hundred sections :) and there are a few bits and bobs missing too! Right. You can merge pdfs.

www.r3owners.net

 

[MrPix]

I hope you are sitting down.... it's a 15 step+ process to remove the tank. I have done it myself before obtaining instructions below to look at routing options for my Denali Sound Bomb (which I ended up routing lower down anyway) and believe that you should be able to work out what's what without pictures, if not... my advice take it to the dealer!

Before commencing, remove seat, disconnect battery and remove flyscreen to gain access to the headstock harness cover screws.
1. Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse box.
Note: ( when I did it, I missed this bit and the fuel hose is a b1tch to get off under pressure and you may even damage it - I was lucky and had put cloths everywhere so avoided a disaster)
Because fuel stored in the fuel rail will be at 3.5 bar pressure, it is essential that the fuel pressure is reduced before any dismantling of the fuel rail takes place.
To reduce pressure, briefly crank the engine with the fuel pump fuse removed.
When disconnected, the fuel tank is self-sealing but a small amount of fuel may dribble from the hose (about 50ml in my experience).
To protect the components under the fuel tank, place suitable material over the components to absorb the small amount of fuel that may come from the fuel tank and its fuel lines.
2. Temporarily reconnect the battery.
3. Start the engine and run until it stalls to drain fuel from the fuel rail.
4. Disconnect the battery
5. Release the two fixings and remove the headstock harness cover. (you can see them once you remove the flyscreen through little access holes, IIRC they are 4mm (or maybe 5mm) allen bolts.
6. Loosen the instruments clamp fixings and tilt the instruments forward out of the way of the tank.
7. Remove the fixing securing the front of the fuel tank to the frame.
8. Raise the front of the fuel tank 50 - 100 mm and disconnect the fuel tank breather hose from the evaporative cannister.
9. To release the double check clip, ease the latch away from the connector until the release buttons are exposed.
10. Disconnect the fuel hose by squeezing the sides of the connector and pulling the hose free from its spigot on the fuel pump rail. Collect any fuel remaining in the hose in a suitable container.
11. Raise the front of the fuel tank 100 - 150 mm.
12. Disconnect the roll over valve hose from the fuel tank.
13. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump.
14. Remove the fixing securing the rear of the fuel tank to the frame.
15. Remove the fuel tank's rear fixing sleeve and remove the fuel tank. Make sure the fuel tank is lifted over the ignition coils.

Torques for reassembly:
Tank rear & front fixings: 8Nm
Instrument clamp: 9Nm
Headstock harness cover: 5Nm

 

[Pauls999]

I hope you are sitting down.... it's a 15 step+ process to remove the tank. I have done it myself before obtaining instructions below to look at routing options for my Denali Sound Bomb (which I ended up routing lower down anyway) and believe that you should be able to work out what's what without pictures, if not... my advice take it to the dealer!

Before commencing, remove seat, disconnect battery and remove flyscreen to gain access to the headstock harness cover screws.
1. Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse box.
Note: ( when I did it, I missed this bit and the fuel hose is a b1tch to get off under pressure and you may even damage it - I was lucky and had put cloths everywhere so avoided a disaster)
Because fuel stored in the fuel rail will be at 3.5 bar pressure, it is essential that the fuel pressure is reduced before any dismantling of the fuel rail takes place.
To reduce pressure, briefly crank the engine with the fuel pump fuse removed.
When disconnected, the fuel tank is self-sealing but a small amount of fuel may dribble from the hose (about 50ml in my experience).
To protect the components under the fuel tank, place suitable material over the components to absorb the small amount of fuel that may come from the fuel tank and its fuel lines.
2. Temporarily reconnect the battery.
3. Start the engine and run until it stalls to drain fuel from the fuel rail.
4. Disconnect the battery
5. Release the two fixings and remove the headstock harness cover. (you can see them once you remove the flyscreen through little access holes, IIRC they are 4mm (or maybe 5mm) allen bolts.
6. Loosen the instruments clamp fixings and tilt the instruments forward out of the way of the tank.
7. Remove the fixing securing the front of the fuel tank to the frame.
8. Raise the front of the fuel tank 50 - 100 mm and disconnect the fuel tank breather hose from the evaporative cannister.
9. To release the double check clip, ease the latch away from the connector until the release buttons are exposed.
10. Disconnect the fuel hose by squeezing the sides of the connector and pulling the hose free from its spigot on the fuel pump rail. Collect any fuel remaining in the hose in a suitable container.
11. Raise the front of the fuel tank 100 - 150 mm.
12. Disconnect the roll over valve hose from the fuel tank.
13. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel pump.
14. Remove the fixing securing the rear of the fuel tank to the frame.
15. Remove the fuel tank's rear fixing sleeve and remove the fuel tank. Make sure the fuel tank is lifted over the ignition coils.

Torques for reassembly:
Tank rear & front fixings: 8Nm
Instrument clamp: 9Nm
Headstock harness cover: 5Nm

Thanks MrPix, I thought it might be a bit involved but didn't realise about the stored fuel pressure, so if I do it myself I'll have to be extra careful about that

 

[Pauls999]

Hi Paul and welcome to the forum from a fellow Brit. There are a couple of members here who have managed to download the manual and should be able to help - @MrPix or @greenturbobob - see this thread:

WORKSHOP MANUALS NEW MODEL

I did the same... not allowed to share it unfortunately. took me much longer than 2 hours though! you can print to pdf... each individual section... there are around 1600 pages split amongst a 'few' hundred sections :) and there are a few bits and bobs missing too! Right. You can merge pdfs.

www.r3owners.net

Thank you for the welcome and the link, I'll check that out later.

 

[Fingers]

Welcome from Florida

 

[TURBO200R4]

welcome from arizona

 

[REBLX136]

Welcome from Cambridge UK.

 

[Mike188]

Welcome from South Australia

 

[Boog]

Hello Paul and welcome from Virginia