Front brakes are just not right!

jetdok5

.040 Over
Joined
Nov 12, 2011
Messages
72
Location
warren, ohio
Caliper floats, changed and bleed fluid. Same...I just seem to have to move the lever too far (close to an inch) before I get any braking action. micro switch is acuated properlt and have the setting on the handle on the tightest setting.....it just does not seem as firm as my gl1800. Now that thing will STOP..brakes are VERY firm.
Rocket brakes dont seem spongyn just not as powerful although they are very smooth. The rear wants to lock up, it seems the rear is a little light and wants to lock up
Any suggestions? The front handke just seems to have excessive travel before zi get significantbraking action. You can not squeeze and bring it back to the handle
 
Not sure on the solution but working properly the r3 brakes are effective at producing braking power. About 5k miles back noticed my brakes losing some power so I replaced brake fluid and bled them and my brakes returned to original condition.
 
Agree on the rear break's tendency to lock. It has too much bite for us. Care is indicated.

No similar problem with our front breaks, however. They seem stong and smooth on our Beast.

We trudge on.
 

Just a suggestion little messy but maybe worth a try.

If you don't have access to forced pressure or vaccum bleed tool system.

Remove both front callipers fluid lines attached put something solid a block of hard wood maybe between the pads so that you don't pop the pistons.. tape them for safety .. get the callipers as high as possible let the air bubbles rise and bleed the the air out preferably though plastic tubing into a bottlle.
Make sure you cover the bike well if you try this, and a second pair of hands would help..

I know its unauthordox but if any air is trapped in there it should come out.
 
I think it has to be air in your system. I've just had my fluid replaced as part of the service,it wasn't a problem before but it does seem better now. Apparently 2yrs is the standard time for fluid change be it car or bike. Personally I think its a bit of a con but there we have it. There is another thread about this somewhere on this forum.
 
Well you could say that but Brake flluid collects moisture over time and corrodes the system inside, so it has always been a service recommendation as long as I can remember.
 
Dennsell said:
Well you could say that but Brake flluid collects moisture over time and corrodes the system inside, so it has always been a service recommendation as long as I can remember.
Click to expand...

You are right there Dennsell but I'm not convinced that 2 yrs is the right time period. I've never checked but I don't think it's ever been done as part of the servicing on my car & that's 5 yrs old now.
 
I am gulity of this too and Im a mechanic. supposed to do these things to my vehicles but seem to forget but thats the official reason, same as flushing ya cooling system every year and refilling I forget that too .
 
Ok I asume you are running std pads which could be glazed (overheated) and there for need to thrown as i have tried before to sand a set and after a while they are just as bad, the std pads are not a bad pad but are medium in brake quality. Get some EBC HH pads or another brand if you prefer but make sure you get the softer sports/racing HH compound you will find they will seem touchy till you get used to them but it won't take long but don't put them on and grab a hand full or you will quickly learn how to do a stoppie.. Believe me not fun when you don't expect it as I found the first time I put a set in my VFR800 and nobody warned me just how good they are
Oh and ol' flipmiester sells them that' where I bought mine
 
+1 on the glazed pads.....worth a try anyways. CHeck for "bluing" on the rotor. This will indicate excess heat.
Good luck

mutt
 
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