fishing for a solution

I moved the ignition barrel from the upper front to the left middle side behind the engine I had to cut the wings holding that barrel in place in so doing the barrel came apart in two pieces upper part with the key turning a center metal shaft that in turn turns a plastic female shaft on the bottom part worked for a short while but now all is dead no lights or whirring sound whenI turn the key nothing.
checked all fuses and changed battery but I am at a loss anybody has an idea on what may have happened I had that procedure done before without any issues so I really cannot think what happened
I am inclined to think the bottom of the ignition barrel is not making contact when I turn the key to "on" so I may have to find the wires that make the on connection and see if the lights do come on unless I missed something else ? so if any one can think of something let me know. I am weather turned sunny and here I am working on this rig outside on gravel

Should not have to cut anything except some steel wire cable holders on the bracket behind the side panel - only size mod is the hole in the side panel.
I have made cables for members to extend the loom (No cutting wires)

Mittzy said:

Should not have to cut anything except some steel wire cable holders on the bracket behind the side panel - only size mod is the hole in the side panel.
I have made cables for members to extend the loom (No cutting wires)

Click to expand...

I have done that modded the hole and removed the hard wires as well
but originally I just could not remove the barrel from its original position and the bolts holding it there were non removable so I just sawed the wings off but my problem is of another dimension as mentioned
I have asked @DECOSSE for info on the wiring and if I get some info on that I will just bypass that ignition barrel altogether all I need is to find which two wires are turning on the whole system when the key is turned to "ON"

Here's how the switch works:
It actually close FOUR circuits individually;

(note - the wire colours listed are the ones on the main harness side - you will need to match these up to the switch which uses a different colour set!!)

1. White/Blue from Fuse #2 - constant Power In -> switches to Green (Ignition Circuit) which goes directly to the Kill/Run Switch

2. White/Blue from Fuse #2 - constant Power In -> switches to Blue/Yellow - Lighting Control - goes via Fuse #8

3. Orange from Fuse #4 - constant Power In -> switches to Orange - Stop/Turns/Horn goes directly to the Front & Rear Brake Switches and Horn Positive

4. Red/Blue from Fuse #8 (output from the fuse supplied by the Blue/Yellow) -> switches to Red/Orange - Running Lights - goes via Fuse #10

Some general Diagnostics:

ALL Fuses except 8, 9, 10 (9 is actually empty) should have 12V on them EVEN WITH KEY OFF.

With Key ON you should have power at Fuses 8 and 10

To measure voltage at Fuses, use this technique:

Put the voltmeter negative probe on battery negative and leave it there;
Next take the red probe and, leaving the fuses installed, simply touch the probe to the metal tabs on the tops of the Fuses.
There should be 12V on EACH side of the fuse as appropriate

For the Ignition Circuit, it does not go back through a Fuse - the easiest place to measure the voltage for that circuit (the Green out of the Key-Switch to the Kill/Run switch)
would be at the Alarm Connector under the tank;
There are two wire loops on that blanking connector - the loops are between pins 1 & 2 and pins 3 & 5.
With Key On you should have 12V on all four of those pins - you might find it easier to use a needle to touch the terminal as the probe will probably be a bit too large to make contact. (I would just pick one to check - if one is good they will all be)

The other way to go is just to disconnect the switch and measure for continuity:

With the connector held in this orientation, with those ribs towards the top;
looking directly into the terminals (NOT the wire side)
Top Row Left to Right is 4 - 3 - 2 - 1
Bottom Row Left to Right is 8 - 7 - 6 - 5


Link Removed

With switch ON, you should have continuity between
1 & 5;
1 & 4;
2 & 3;
6 & 8.

Hope that helps

Let me know if you need further guidance

albertaduke said:

I have done that modded the hole and removed the hard wires as well
but originally I just could not remove the barrel from its original position and the bolts holding it there were non removable so I just sawed the wings off but my problem is of another dimension as mentioned
I have asked @DECOSSE for info on the wiring and if I get some info on that I will just bypass that ignition barrel altogether all I need is to find which two wires are turning on the whole system when the key is turned to "ON"

Click to expand...

I have the solution LITFA

IMFASTTOO said:

I have the solution LITFA

Click to expand...

and what might that be,, as I do not do wikipedia much

albertaduke said:

and what might that be,, as I do not do wikipedia much

Click to expand...

Leave
It
The
F*ck
Alone

albertaduke said:

I have done that modded the hole and removed the hard wires as well
but originally I just could not remove the barrel from its original position and the bolts holding it there were non removable so I just sawed the wings off but my problem is of another dimension as mentioned
I have asked @DECOSSE for info on the wiring and if I get some info on that I will just bypass that ignition barrel altogether all I need is to find which two wires are turning on the whole system when the key is turned to "ON"

Click to expand...

I took my top triple clamp off to remove mine as the bolts were not only anti-theft but locktite'd in as well.

Ignition key relocation
Check post 11 - I made a little bracket to mount a 12volt socket

I did a mod to my switch.... I unplugged it and don't use it at all.

Thanks to DEcosse keyless ignition.